Time for oriental inspiration
As the clouds of uncertainty continue to hover ominously over the global economy, many watch brands did not venture outside their comfort zones at BaselWorld 2012.
This year, 'the watch industry is in a state of consolidation and there aren't spectacular trends', says Marc Glaser, managing director of Maurice Lacroix. 'But there are innovations, especially when it comes to materials and technology, such as new movements. I think the watch industry completely recovered in 2011 and this year we'll be doing well.'
Watch brands aren't alone in playing it safe, according to Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe. 'This year, retailers are willing to spend, but only on the right products, which means they don't want to take risks,' he says. 'They probably won't spend on new brands. While 2012 may still see the watch industry doing well, I remain vigilant because the growth in the Asian market is slowing down.'
Frances Yip, assistant general manager at King Fook, is cautiously optimistic for this year. 'The designs of the latest watches from most brands don't catch people off guard.
'Most of the BaselWorld 2012 novelties cater to the Chinese taste because China is the biggest consumer of watches in the world.' Dragon timepieces epitomise watch brands' predilection for the Oriental aesthetic. This year marks the Year of the Dragon and watchmakers have pulled out all the stops to reinvent the dragon watch.
The Galet Secret Dragon watch from Laurent Ferrier plays a game of hide-and-seek with the wearer. Its patented tourbillon double spiral movement makes it possible for two sapphire glasses to rotate 240 degrees downwards to reveal a grand feu enamel dial showing the dragon in its fierce glory.
The Petite Heure Minute Relief Dragon watch from Jaquet Droz depicts the hand-engraved mythical creature cradling a ruby on the black mother-of-pearl dial. But the real surprise is revealed when you flip the watch - the caseback displays a dragon tail engraved on the oscillating weight, bringing the animal to life.
The Baccara Dragon watch from Christophe Claret features a dial with a dragon motif and the games baccarat with chime, dice and roulette, highlighting the auspiciousness symbolised by the dragon. Inspired by one of the dragons displayed on the Nine-Dragon Wall in Beihai Park, an imperial garden to the northwest of the Forbidden City in Beijing, the HMS1 Dragon from Arnold & Son features a gold dragon applique on a black lacquered dial.
A departure from Oriental-inspired watches centred on the dragon, the Traditional Chinese Calendar watch courtesy of Blancpain celebrates 2012 with a petite dragon engraved on the dial at 12 o'clock. The timepiece's white grand feu enamel dial features various forms of the traditional Chinese calendar, such as signs of the zodiac, the celestial stems, the five elements and the leap months.
Besides playing the Oriental card, brands are also using materials deemed unusual for watchmaking to lure collectors, including those who think they have seen it all. The H1 watch from HYT, which tells time with fluorescent liquid circling on the periphery, causes more than a few jaws to drop. Harry Winston's Premier Feathers collection sees the luxury brand pair the marquetry of feathers with diamonds for the first time. The dials, adorned with feathers, are designed by French plumassiere Nelly Saunier, who counts Jean Paul Gaultier among her collaborators.
Celebrities sell, and brands are not hesitating to enlist them. Cameron Diaz is the new spokeswoman for Tag Heuer's BaselWorld 2012 novelty Link Lady, while Milla Jovovich continues to front the campaign of Jacob & Co. Oris has launched a watch dedicated to the late Chet Baker.
The Chet Baker Limited Edition features a black dial adorned with bars from Baker's classic My Funny Valentine and the caseback is engraved with the silhouette of the jazz musician blowing his trumpet.
BaselWorld 2012 was held from March 8 to 15 this year, earlier than usual. 'It seemed a little strange to be having Basel so early this year, but business is good and everything is positive,' says Omega CEO Stephen Urquhart.
BaselWorld 2013 will be held from April 25 to May 2. The exhibition ground will be revamped by the Pritzker-winning Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron, whose repertoire includes the Tate Modern in London and the Beijing National Stadium.
It promises to be spectacular.
'The booths are expensive to dismantle and to assemble, but this move is important for the growth of the watch industry,' says Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of TAG Heuer. 'I think BaselWorld 2013 will scale new heights in terms of quality and luxuriousness.'
