Sky Crystal

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 31 May, 2012, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 31 May, 2012, 12:00am


Shop B2, 101/F ICC
1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2673 3839
Open: 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm
Cuisine: mostly Shanghainese

Price: for dinner, there's a minimum of HK$500 per person, and we reached that without even trying, although we ordered moderately and avoided the dried seafood dishes.

Ambience: the decor is expensive and glittery, but the sound level was more subdued. Tables are set well apart. We asked for - and received - a table by the plate glass windows so we could enjoy the view.

Pros: service was a little too hovering at first, but it settled down and became nicely attentive, the servers changing our plates as needed and portioning the dishes.

Cons: at these prices, you expect perfection in the food, but we've had better (or as good) for much cheaper. Xiao long bao (HK$98 for three) weren't soupy enough. Crispy eel was well flavoured, but slightly tough. A dish described as minced greens topped with dried bean curd (HK$78) came out as rolls, with too much bean curd and not enough vegetable, so it was dry and flavourless. Sauteed prawns with egg whites (HK$548 for a regular portion) had huge prawns with the right bouncy texture, but the scrambled egg whites weren't as soft, tender and light as they should be.

Recommended dishes: the classic dish of chicken soaked in aged wine (HK$128) had boneless pieces of dark meat that had been well-flavoured with the wine. Braised pork belly (HK$98) was one of the better versions of dongpo yuk I've tasted, with soft meat, fat and skin in an intense but light sauce. Perfectly cooked French beans with dried shrimp (HK$108) was a refined version of this traditional dish, but without any loss of flavour. Steamed fish head with chilli (HK$250) came in a light broth that was surprisingly subtle despite the mound of chillies on top (although you shouldn't eat them).

What else? Sky Crystal is the rich relative of the Crystal Jade chain of restaurants.