Pros: since space is at a premium, the place is designed efficiently, including storage for personal belongings under the padded seats. This place is an offal-lover's dream, with cuts that even we hadn't tasted before.

Cons: the food came out almost all at once, and it was hard to manoeuvre it all on the tabletop. The ventilation system wasn't strong enough, and things got very smoky a couple of times.

Recommended dishes: many of the meats looked similar, but they all had their own flavour and texture. We had no problems distinguishing between pork heart in soy sauce (HK$38) and beef heart in soy sauce (HK$28); we preferred the former, which was more tender and delicate. Ditto with the pork uterus in miso (HK$38), pork large intestines in miso (HK$48) and pork rectum in miso (HK$48); the uterus (which looked more like fallopian tubes) was a thinner tube and quite tender, while the other meats were chewier. Pork belly in salt (HK$28) was beautifully layered with fat and meat. Cod stomach with spring onion and spicy dressing (HK$58) was a cold dish that refreshed our palates. We ended the meal with three noodle dishes: spicy galbi pork ribs ramen (HK$55) which, with its tender meat and toothsome noodles, was so good, we'd come back for it; noodles with 'dregs of offal fat' (actually crisply fried pork fat, HK$48); and wonderfully refreshing cold noodles (HK$68 for a large portion) with soft- boiled egg, kimchi and cucumber.

What else? Osaka Horumon doesn't serve barbecue at lunch; instead, options are limited to noodle and rice dishes. Although it's supposedly open until midnight, the staff were cleaning up when we left at 10.30pm.