Above & Beyond

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 21 June, 2012, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 21 June, 2012, 12:00am


28/F Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East
Tel: 3400 1318
Open: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm
Cuisine: Chinese

Price: about HK$500 without drinks or the service charge.

Ambience: at night, dim lighting makes the most of the view.

Pros: this was one of the best meals we've had in a long time. Service was attentive, confident and knowledgeable. The menu had so many dishes we wanted to try that it took about an hour before the four of us could agree.

Cons: double-boiled pork lung soup with fish maw and almond cream (HK$298 for a small portion) had a slightly sour taste that we disliked. Wok-fried prawns with chicken hearts and lychee (HK$288) and the braised vegetables with red heart iron buddha tea sauce (HK$168) were presented well and the ingredients were top quality, but the flavours were not cohesive.

Recommended dishes: we knew we were in for a good meal from the first dish - smoked egg with oolong tea leaves and black truffles (HK$48). The smokiness was subtle, but the truffle and crunchy flakes of salt gave depth to the egg. Marinated shredded chicken, duck and jellyfish with cantaloupe and honeydew (HK$188) was beautifully presented and the flavours changed with each mouthful. Smoked chicken with oolong tea leaves (HK$238 for half) needed a little salt, but the meat - even the breast - was moist, with a delicate smokiness. Pan-seared Kagoshima pork belly with raisins and osmanthus (HK$188) had tender, fatty meat infused with a rich, balanced sauce.

What else? Working with the School of Hotel and Tourism Management at Polytechnic University, the Hotel Icon trains students.