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Reds take plaudits but whites win on elegance

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Why you can trust SCMP
Sarah Wong

China is the world's seventh largest consumer of wine and is well known for its insatiable demand for fine wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. It has also been capturing headline news for its acquisitions of wineries around the world from France to Chile and Australia.

But these wines still represent a tiny fragment of total wine consumption. While according to a recent report half of domestic sales are dominated by just three major local wine giants, Changyu, Great Wall and Dynasty, it is Grace Winery that is attracting attention for the quality of its wines.

Grace Winery was founded in 1997 by Chinese-Indonesian businessman C.K. Chan and is now run by his daughter, Judy Leissner. Leissner says that Grace aims to make 'elegant, balanced not big jammy wines that will go with food'. Although intended primarily for local consumption, the wines have performed well in international competitions.

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Undoubtedly, Australian winemaker Ken Murchison has played a role in this achievement. The winery notes 'his expertise in winemaking and grape growing' and that he brings a 'different perspective and model from the New World'.

At the Decanter World Wine Awards 2012, Grace picked up five medals for its red varieties - cabernet sauvignon, merlot and top Bordeaux blends. White wines get overshadowed by the predominance of red Bordeaux varietals and only represent 10 per cent of production. There are a few varieties that are worth trying for their quality and uniqueness.

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Grace Vineyard Tasya's Reserve Cabernet Franc 2010

Cabernet franc is a variety best known as a component of Bordeaux blends but rarely seen as a single varietal wine except in regions such as the Loire Valley in France. Grace's cabernet franc is from Shanxi and only 9 per cent has been aged in new French barrels. Blackcurrant, peppery, leafy notes. Medium bodied, elegant with firm tannins and medium long finish. Shows purity of fruit, with a touch of spicy French oak. HK$199

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