Chateau Pontet-Canet in Pauillac, Bordeaux, is a fifth growth under the 1855 classification system. In the past decade, it has been receiving more critical attention from wine writers and has been touted as a chateau to look out for. Robert Parker has been awarding consistently high scores to the chateau's wines, and the 2009 blockbuster vintage was given a perfect score of 100 points.
So, what has revived the fortunes of this once underrated producer?
The Tesseron family acquired the property in 1975 and initiated dramatic changes. Innovation and attention to detail both in the vineyard and the winery have helped contribute to the increasing quality of the wines. Considerable investment in the winery includes the installation of a double sorting system for the grapes. This ensures that only the best grapes are used. In 2004, Pontet-Canet started adopting organic and biodynamic farming methods in the vineyards.
According to Melanie Tesseron, who runs the chateau with her uncle Alfred Tesseron, the improved wines 'showed more depth, and the tannins were rounder'. Tesseron adds that biodynamics has also helped them respect nature and 'the more we respect nature, the more it gives'. By 2010, Pontet-Canet became the first Grand Cru Classe to achieve a 100 per cent organic and biodynamic certification in its vineyards.
Pontet-Canet 2008
The varietal blend is 65 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 30 per cent merlot, 4 per cent cabernet franc and 1 per cent cent petit verdot. This was an important year, as it was the first time in 40 years that horses replaced tractors. According to Tesseron, the advantage is that it lessens compaction of the soil, helping increase its health, leading to higher-quality grapes.