Once bitten: tapas crawl in Madrid

Ernest Hemingway described Madrid as "the most Spanish of all cities" and the "best to live in". It's easy to see why, with its alluring churches and monument-filled plazas; fascinating fine art museums and exotic festivals. But I'm choosing to experience the Spanish capital in a different, more delicious way - with a seven-hour tapas tour. I can't resist the chance to eat the most unusual forms of this food I can find, even though it might not be so good for my already expanding waistline!

Tapas is the name for the broad range of hot and cold appetisers or bite-sized snacks served up in Spanish cuisine. "There are two theories on why we started eating tapas," relates Jorge Alonso, proprietor of El Lacón, a trendy tapas bar in the heart of town. "One was that a piece of bread with a morsel of cheese or meat was put on top of your beer or wine to stop the flies getting in it [tapas derives from tapar, which means "to cover"]. The other is that King Alfonso the Wise, who reigned in the 13th century, fell ill and was advised by his doctor to eat lots of little meals rather than larger ones - as the public would copy the monarch, this habit caught on."

12.15pm: La Casa del Bacalao, Plaza de San Miguel 1
This spot is just one of 33 fantastic stalls and eateries in one of the oldest covered markets in the country: Mercado de San Miguel, which was constructed in 1916. I stand in this wonderful temple to gastronomy with locals and tourists bustling underneath a spectacularly intricate web-shaped cast-iron ceiling. Bacalao means "cod" in Spanish, so it's no wonder this fish is this place's forte. Without hesitation, I indulge: it's dished up as a sort of edible paste on French toast, with a mouthwatering garnish of lumpfish caviar. Amazingly, each portion of any tapas only costs €1 (HK$10.20).

1.30pm: Toma Jamón, Cava Baja 10
Myriad pastel-coloured houses adorned with petite balconies and antiquated iron lamps indicate that I am on Cava Baja. This quaint, winding road, which traces the line of the old city wall, is renowned for its array of fantastic tapas bars. My first port of call is Toma Jamón, where I begin to think the owner may be a bit upset with me, because he is standing at the window brandishing a large carving knife. But my imagination is running away from me; the guy's only slicing an enormous jamón Ibérico. I just have to try some, and tuck into the moist Iberian ham with mushrooms and garlic. It's sensational.

2.15pm: Casa Lucas, Cava Baja 30
Just a few doors down the road, it's time to be blooded, quite literally - I have my first taste of morcilla. It's a form of black pudding cooked from a pig's (or other types of livestock's) blood. When this vital fluid has dried, it is blended with a filler - on this occasion, onion - in advance of it congealing. To be honest, what's put in front of me looks a lot more Skoda than Ferrari - but it's more gratifying than you could hope for, so it easily wins me over.

3.45pm: Estado Puro, Plaza Cánovas del Castillo 4
Estado Puro shows just how varied tapas venues in this town can be. Part of the luxurious NH Paseo del Prado hotel, it's funkier than a Lady Gaga outfit. Indeed, surrounded by hip lighting and an azure blue tableau, I feel it is the perfect setting. However, my odd English sensibilities make me question whether I really am going to enjoy pig's trotters, even if they do come with sliced portions of my favourite cuttlefish. After one bite, I already need to thank this establishment's Michelin-starred chef, Paco Roncero. The tender swine meat is absolutely scrumptious.

5pm: La Taberna de Antonio Sánchez, Calle Mesón
de Paredes 13
Romance and heartache collide when I step into one of Madrid's oldest tapas joints. Named in 1830 after the founder's son, who was tragically slain while bullfighting, this haunt is full of memorabilia from that adventurous spectacle, including the stuffed head of the brute that impaled young Sanchez. Rabo de toro (oxtail) is my dish of choice, and it's so infused with flavour that my tongue feels like it will do a pirouette and leap out of my mouth.

6.15pm: La Venencia, Calle Echegaray 7
"Over here, dinner is usually between 9pm and 11pm, so the locals frequently gobble up appetisers in the time after work and before their main meal," states my guide Joanna, whose Insider's Madrid tours include tapas bar hops. She has brought me to the small, cosy La Venencia. More than 100 years old, this tavern is an elegant purveyor of shabby chic: time-worn posters adorn the walls, and casks of sherry slumber throughout. In fact, it's the only kind of liquor sold here, with the crisp fino and bone-dry manzanilla being specialities. Just as refreshing is the cured mojama tuna, which I also cannot stop shoving down my throat. These morsels are salt-cured, so they have a distinct texture and flavour that remind one of Parma ham. As an added treat - as if there is any more room left in my stomach - a sizeable helping of picos (bread sticks) and almonds also end up on my plate.

7.15pm: El Lacón, Calle Manuel Fernández y González 8
Finally, my last destination, and I feel like a punch-drunk boxer. However, instead of being weighed down with heavy blows, it's this mighty amount of heavenly grub that's done me in. Notwithstanding all this, there is still space for one more round of nibbles. Should I go for El Lacón's signature dish? The restaurant is best known for its callos con garbanzos (tripe with chickpeas). Instead, my choice is mollejas de cordero (lamb sweetbreads). "They have a bit of a delayed kick," Joanna points out. Indeed, initially they seem quite soft on the palate, but then the mellowest of all creatures fights back - there's an astringent aftertaste. One thing's for sure - after my epic eat-athon, I won't be counting sheep or any other type of food in my sleep for quite a while!

Where to Eat

La Casa del Bacalao, Plaza de San Miguel 1; www.mercadodesanmiguel.es
Toma Jamón, Cava Baja 10; Tel (0034) 91 444 81 62; www.tomajamon.com
Casa Lucas, Cava Baja 30; Tel (0034) 91 365 08 04; www.casalucas.es
Estado Puro, Plaza Cánovas del Castillo 4; Tel (0034) 91 330 24 00; www.tapasenestadopuro.com
La Taberna de Antonio Sánchez, Calle Mesón de Paredes 13; Tel (0034) 91 539 78 26; www.tabernaantoniosanchez.com
La Venencia, Calle Echegaray 7; Tel (0034) 91 429 73 13
El Lacón, Calle Manuel Fernández y González 8; Tel (0034) 91 429 60 42; www.mesonellacon.com