Leather men

The hammers and chisels in the hands of craftsmen working at Loewe's atelier in Getafe, Madrid, would be equally at home in the display cases at the brand's heritage museum showcasing objects ageing gracefully for the past 160 years or so.

Many of the owners of these antique tools are veterans who have worked with the crème de la crème of Spanish exports.

"I learned the skills 40 years ago, and I'm still putting them to good use. There are just things that machines can't do," says Florencio Ledo, an artisan in his 43rd year with the company.

High-quality leather, master craftsmen of Ledo's generation and a consistent reference to the brand's Spanish culture and tradition are the pillars of Loewe's philosophy. Born in 1846 as a small leather goods workshop in the heart of Madrid, the brand quickly launched to fame with its exquisite leather products.

High-standard quality control covers grading, cutting, construction, stitching and polishing the leather. Sourcing leather only from the best domestic tanneries such as Inpelsa and Colomer y Munmany, Loewe is famous for its cordero entrefino Español - lambs bred in the cool heights of the Spanish Pyrenees. Leather as thin as 0.7mm is then organically dyed, buffed and polished with glass cylinders for the ultrasoft, silk-like feel.

Following an internal grading protocol, leather coming from the tanneries are inspected carefully by artisans. As they cut the leather into patterns, the craftsmen also highlight spots of mild imperfection to be concealed during the manufacturing. The experienced craftsmen construct bags by hand.

"The best of Loewe atelier is the lightness of the leather. We have created some of the lightest bags available," says Stuart Vevers at his studio in Madrid. Before his dramatic exit as Loewe's creative director in June, the British designer, widely considered an "it" bag engineer, served almost seven years at the house.

The lightness and softness of luxurious leather made it possible for some of Vevers' iconic designs such as the Papelle, a leather incarnation of brown paper grocery bags. Unlike Vevers' earlier works that were embellished with hardware and bling, this line of pursuit landed right on the bull's eye of luxury basics.

"I started to get tired of the concept of 'it' bags," he says. "I want to return to the more authentic values - the construction and the leather rather than other things around it."

His vision was evident in the products he designed for the brand. "I reinvented some really utilitarian bags in the most luxurious way possible. Loewe's search for perfection means you can do something as utilitarian as a paper bag and it still makes sense because the leather's so beautiful and perfectly crafted."

The brand's focus on quality soon won admirers. In 1905, it was chosen as an official supplier to the Spanish royal family. Fashion giants, including Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Laura Biagiotti, were at the helm in the 1970s to boost its portfolio as a ready-to-wear fashion atelier. The heritage and celebration of craftsmanship have inspired the brand's creative direction in leather goods and fashion garments alike. Channelling the passionate spirit, the brand reinvents itself today with a unique approach that blends in seamlessly in a modern-day dapper's closet. "What sets Loewe men's collection apart is the relaxed approach towards luxury," Vevers says. "The collection has more of a casual attitude, cooler feeling and is less formal."

Think of a smooth calf briefcase without exterior pockets and stamped with a subtle anagram, an oversized Amazona 24H holdall with suede and napa leather, a suede cross-body messenger and a two-way shopping tote. Top craftsmanship is flaunted in the making of each bag. It takes a veteran artisan 10 to 12 hours to create an Amazona bag. Its recent capsule collection in collaboration with Japanese streetwear brand Junya Watanabe is also in sync with its relaxed approach to luxury. The collection showcases Loewe's leather and Watanabe's denim with the contemporary twist that has re-energised the Spanish label. Refreshing elements aside, high-quality products and exclusivity are still at the heart of the luxury leather label.

Now owned by French luxury behemoth LVMH Group, the brand insists on having its leather goods produced in Spain. Instead of cutting its budget, it has doubled the size of the atelier in Madrid and opened a training school to nurture aspiring young craftsmen. Top graduates earn permanent positions at Loewe.

Expanded production lines have catered to the bespoke services. Strong demand for personalised leather goods and quality outerwear has put the atelier's made-to-order department to the test.

At the brand's invite-only, made-to-order events, guests are able to preview the season's offerings available for alterations and personalisation, place orders, get measurements taken and expect delivery in three months' time.

This year's collection includes aviator jackets, hooded jackets and baseball jackets that can be made in luxurious and exotic materials such as suede, napa, ostrich, crocodile, novak, shearling, fox and mink. The service is available at Loewe's first standalone men's store in Hong Kong, which has opened at Harbour City.

"Every brand is different and, as a designer, I'm constantly trying to find out those differences that you want to exploit to get people's attention," Vevers says. "Loewe's knowledge of leather has been a key factor for me from very early on. It's the knowledge to create authentic leather, soft and relaxed."

The same values are lifting Loewe from a national treasure into an international luxury brand.