PUBLISHED : Friday, 20 June, 1997, 12:00am
UPDATED : Friday, 20 June, 1997, 12:00am

Think Valencia, think oranges. The old Moorish city was long famed for its citrus fruit. Now, think of this wonderful old port in eastern Spain and what springs to mind is a lovely, youthful and gentle red wine.

At $55 from Marks & Spencer, it's a good buy and nicely graces the table on a summer afternoon with cold cuts, cheese and salad.

Forget the learned injunctions by wine faddists and chill this right down. In our summer, it will soon warm up in the glass - if you don't drink it first.

Made from the classical Spanish grapes monastrell and tempranillo, this is a good, reliable wine without any fancy notions. It's there to be drunk, so gurgle away.

Valencia has a huge production of honest wine, much of it grown specifically for overseas sales. Strangely enough, the three biggest companies are all Swiss-owned and ship vast amounts of affordable wine to their homeland.

You can be certain the canny Swiss are not going to be selling themselves a second-rate product.