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Dievole Riserva Classico 1988.

THE 7.2 billion litres of wine made each year in Italy appears on the market under 1.6 million labels. How does the wine lover know which one to buy? Some help is given by the classification of 800 wines under 220 DOC zones. These are meant to indicate the top wines.

However, this is not by any means an accurate guide as a number of brilliant wines, such as Sassicaia, Tignanello and Cervaro della Sala, have no DOC classification.

The name Dievole will not help the buyer to identify this wine. It appears in none of the reference books. However, the wine is a Chianti Classico - one of Italy's top classifications. The test comes when the wine is poured.

The wine is the clear ruby colour typical of a Chianti.

The taste was a little light in the mouth which may have been the result of a minute bottle fermentation or of the method of vinification.

It had no effect on the enjoyment of the wine which was mature and full of round, rich flavours.

There was none of the brusqueness which was a feature of so many old style Chiantis.

Area: Tuscany.

Grape: Principally Sangiovese.

Winemaker: Dievole.

Importer: Solar Max Ltd.

Price: $208 (case price).

Availability: From the importer, phone 554-1183.

Buying advice: An impressive modern Chianti - worth the money. - Bacchante

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