New look recalls 1950s

PUBLISHED : Sunday, 18 April, 1993, 12:00am
UPDATED : Sunday, 18 April, 1993, 12:00am

NAZARENO Gabrielli lines are tapering, wrapping, sometimes tight, very severe. For contrast, they can be wide, rich, vaporous.

Likewise, skirts can be long and tight, austere; straight, knee-length, very sober; but also pleated, or flower-shaped, in the bustier dress which recalls the 1950s; or bell-shaped, ankle-length, to be worn with a short, neckless jacket or an evening silk pullover.

Trousers cover a whole range, from shorts to the men's tailleur models, to the loose, with an Oriental look.

The jackets contrast outlines for a soldierly or a navy touch. They are short and loose.

Classics can be found such as gabardine, linen, floral silk, or ancient-looking fabrics such as the striped cotton jersey. There are four colour themes: all greys and the softer pastels - the rigours; blue in shades to navy, contrasted with white and red- the elegance. Tobacco, sand, ivory, beige - the sport chic. And the acid pastels of green, red, orange, turquoise - the freshness.

For evenings, fabrics are shantung silk and ivory organza. Costumes are long and short, with skirts or trousers, in suits or tailleurs, with rolled-up hems, rouches and volants.

In accessories, Dallas is the pleasure of being noticed: wild crocodile print-jewel chains, exclusive golden brooches, sea green, emerald, blue and sand.

Traveller is traditional style, the comfort of practicability. Beaten leather finishings, in parchment, date, navy blue, and marsh green.

Manhattan stands for elegance. The design is small, compact, but perfectly defined. Pearly shadings and treated leather, with straw-like prints in seaside colours: sea green, mandarine, light-blue and sand white.

The Jeans range of bags shows great strength of colour. Nine hues, including periwinkle, lime green and emerald, in a soft wild boar suede. Outlines, handles and inside linings are in gros grain of the same colour. Gold buttons and studs adorn.