THE taxi driver slowed down and waved his hand at the colonnades of the Wan Chai Police Station. 'The British,' he said suddenly, in the middle of a conversation about something quite different, 'did two good things for Hong Kong.
'The first is that they got rid of corruption . . .' And the second, I prompted. 'They left,' he grinned.
Neither of those statements are completely true, but since 1974 a new independent body to fight corruption has meant Hong Kong's history of entrenched bribery has, mostly and with high-profile exceptions, become history.
And, thanks to an extensive education programme, it has meant that most people in the SAR believe graft is uncool.
Compare today's situation (in which the Hong Kong Police Force can call itself 'Asia's Finest' without causing laughter; in which the public can report crime without fear of victimisation; in which the words 'Warwick Reid', 'George Tan' or 'Peter Godber' are reminders that white-collar crime does not pay) with the one in 1973.
That year, Hong Kong publicly recognised its police - and civil service - could resist everything but temptation. And it did something about it.