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Mezzaluna

David Phair

Mezzaluna offers all that you would expect from a Mandarin Oriental restaurant, but this being Macau it is more relaxed than its sister hotel in Hong Kong. We couldn't help but smile at the two youngsters curled up asleep on a formal sofa on one side of a neighbouring dinner table as their parents tucked into their dinner on the other. The Portuguese approach to children being a part of eating out is still alive.

Dipping into the handsome freshly baked bread basket, we tried the wine buffet - as much as you can drink for $108 per head with selections from both the new and old world. We started with a feta cheese salad served in two red cabbage shells. Seasoned with fresh basil, the cheese was pungent and the accompanying tomatoes juicy.

The chargrilled asparagus was similarly tasty - lightly cooked and served with a poached egg although this was a little overdone for our tastes. The entrees comprised the usual rounded selection that Italian restaurants tend to offer - pasta, pizza and meat dishes. The linguini with lobster, garlic and chilli was simply prepared, with generous pieces of shellfish and the pasta cooked al dente. Be warned, portions are substantial, so order the small size if you've had a starter. The oven-baked sea bass was also satisfying - a huge portion of plump fish lying atop a bed of moist risotto which had a rich tomato flavour.

Filled to capacity, we could only manage to share the lemon sorbet - three scoops that were tangy and came with a blueberry and lemon liquor-based sauce. Dinner for two totalled $925 including service and tip, three bottles of mineral water and a double espresso. The bill was undoubtedly expensive by Macau standards, but then Mezzaluna is not your hole in the wall restaurant. It's in a deluxe hotel for which visitors pays a premium.

However, it still manages to offer better value for money than many Hong Kong hotels and, with its lemon walls and wicker furniture, its stylish interior is head and shoulders above most of its neighbours across the Pearl River estuary. Well worth the trip on its own.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 956-1110 Avenida de Amizade, Macau.

Tel: (853) 567 888. Open Tue-Sun 12.30pm-3pm, 6.30pm-11pm. $$$$$

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