Meadow Bar and Restaurant

PUBLISHED : Friday, 08 September, 2000, 12:00am
UPDATED : Friday, 08 September, 2000, 12:00am

Tucked in the lower end of Shelley Street, Meadow is a newcomer to the SoHo area in Central. The small establishment houses a bar on the ground floor and a dining room above, both with large windows looking out to one of Hong Kong's most popular spots for a night out.

It is not easy to tell from the avant-garde decor - bright colours with designer touches - that Meadow is a Chinese restaurant. But the menu affirms its ethnic identity with a wide selection of Chinese dishes, which include traditional dishes as well as intriguing innovations.

We would have ordered Chinese tea to go with our meal, but hesitated after we saw the drinks menu, which boasted a range of healthy fruit cocktails. The apple and carrot juice ($48) was refreshing, but our favourite was the green tea with peach ($38). The tea was blended with fresh peach pulp to produce a smooth, fruity drink that was simply hard to resist.

For starters, we ordered steamed duck leg stuffed with salted egg ($78) and deep-fried bean curd rolled in fresh shrimp paste ($58). But it was the stir-fried pak choi ($68) that arrived first. Pressed garlic gave the dish a refined taste, but the texture of the pak choi was ruined by the starchy sauce. We loved the steamed duck leg, which was stuffed with salted egg yolk and cut into slices. The meat was lean and tender, and well complemented by the sinfully rich egg yolk. The bean curd turned out to be dried bean curd sheets rolled in shrimp paste and deep-fried. We could hardly taste the shrimp but the crispy rolls were nonetheless enjoyable. Sauteed shrimps with Longjing tea leaves ($160) were disappointing, as the shrimps were tasteless. Hand-made mini won ton, stuffed with minced pork and basil ($48), were served in a clear broth and made an interesting, fresh and grease free alternative to the Cantonese version. Dinner for two was $556.

Meadow Bar and Restaurant, 10 Shelley Street, Central.

Tel: 2180 9130. Open: noon-midnight. $$$