Baby Blue Cafe and Bar

PUBLISHED : Friday, 15 September, 2000, 12:00am
UPDATED : Friday, 15 September, 2000, 12:00am

If you do not enjoy mussels, you might as well forget about Baby Blue. Two full pages of the restaurant's five-page menu cover mussel delicacies, so you will have a hard time deciding what to order if you don't like the shellfish.

The restaurant occupies part of the site of the former Daimaru department store. The dining room is spacious and airy, and a good view of Victoria Park has a soothing effect on the atmosphere.

The eatery was almost deserted on a recent Sunday afternoon, which was surprising in a place like Causeway Bay. In addition to the mussel dishes, the menu also offers a limited choice of pasta and other entrees. We could not help but draw a comparison with Belgo in London, well known for its mussels and Belgian beer.

We started the meal with escargots ($58 for half a dozen, $98 for a dozen), which were good but unspectacular. The mushrooms in a creamy sauce on the mushrooms on toast ($52) were delicious, but did not work well with the soggy brown bread, and would have tasted much better if served on small slices of toasted baguette.

Mussels were served either grilled or boiled and we opted for the former. The Brussels mussels ($88) - topped with cheese and diced tomatoes - were disappointing. The mussels were small and tasteless, and the topping failed to elevate the dish. A better main course was the Rocky Graziano's pasta with red wine sauce ($88) - a combination of Italian sausage and linguine. As in many other establishments in Hong Kong, the pasta was cooked in a far from authentic way, but was nonetheless delicious.

We chose the chilled creme brulee ($38) out of an enticing list of desserts but it turned out to be a let-down - the caramelised sugar topping was melted instead of crisp, and the custard underneath was curdled.

Lunch for three was $423.

Shop 6, Family Square, 9-11 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay. Tel: 2882 8770. Open: Sunday-Thursday noon-midnight, Friday and Saturday noon-2am. $$