Mes Amis
There is a very fine line between relaxed dining and poor service and Mes Ami in Wan Chai walks that line.
It is easy to see how it comes so close to the edge. Its long, airy bar, timber decor and cool music create a comfortable and casual atmosphere - perfect for a lingering dinner. Unfortunately, being a bar/restaurant, the staff were often preoccupied with the drinkers and the service was a little slow as a result. Nevertheless, once the food arrived this was forgiven and, hopefully, amounted to nothing more than teething problems.
Mes Amis' Mediterranean-inspired menu is small but offers a nice variety of dishes. It's complemented by a reasonable wine list of mostly New World drops ranging from $198 to $608.
The waiter's recommendation of the Thai ginger chilli sauce with the starter of a 'bucket' of mussels for two ($128) was much appreciated. It was a superb, authentic Thai sauce and the mussels large and juicy, though the 'bucket' could easily have been devoured by one hungry person. The prawn and avocado salad starter ($88) was also much enjoyed for its freshness and light cocktail sauce.
Mains didn't disappoint either. The tenderloin steak ($188) came as two thick chunks of perfectly grilled beef served with a fine pepper sauce, roast potatoes and nicely cooked vegetables. The pastry-covered lamb chops ($168), served with the same vegetables, looked like two enormous clubs - not exactly attractive but tender and tasty nonetheless.
Pasta is a true test for Hong Kong restaurants and the penne alla puttanesesca, a traditional tomato and olive-based sauce ($118), passed. The lasagne verdi ($148) didn't, as it was too heavy and was lacking in flavour.
An acceptable tiramisu ($58) and coffee ($35) topped off a good meal. The price for four people for three courses with coffee came to $1,300.
85 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2527 6680. Open: Sunday-Thursday noon-2am, Friday-Saturday noon-3am. $$$$
