IN THE SAME WAY that travel guide recommendations can ruin unspoilt beauty spots, it's a shame to draw attention to a great new restaurant in an unlikely location.
To be fair, Exchange Square is not exactly virgin rainforest, but on a Saturday night when the suits have scattered, it's probably the last place you'd think of for a romantic dinner or a feast of modern French cuisine.
During the week, The Exchange Restaurant - above the Exchange Bar on the old Brown's site - is packed with those of the 15,000 worker bees in the three Exchange Square buildings who have time to eat. In the evenings and at weekends, the understated, unpretentious 45-seat restaurant becomes a fine dining haven.
First impression is of a City boys' refectory, with one wall completely lined with shelves of wine bottles. The other walls sport vibrant paintings of the world's stock exchanges. Candlelight, crisp white linen tablecloths and polished wood floors make for simple but elegant surroundings.
Even being a Saturday night with only 12 diners failed to discourage the staff, who were helpful but not obsequious.
The wine list, a War And Peace volume, covers 12 pages, with 90 French reds alone. Prices range from $130 for a 97 Clos Jean Bordeaux to $3,760 for a 94 Chateau Latour.
By contrast, chef Roger Bertoni, an Australian with Italian parents who trained in France, had kept the menu concise. The five fish and five meat options included squid ink tagliatelle with seafood and pan-fried beef tenderloin.