If you still have one of those Lunar New Year miniature kumquat trees gathering dust in the corner of your flat, remove all the still-firm fruit before discarding the plant. While the entire fruit - flesh and skin - is edible raw, I've always thought it too tart to be palatable. I do, however, enjoy them cooked. Kumquats make a delicious dessert sauce - cook the fruit with some sugar syrup (equal parts of castor sugar and water) and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Simmer over low heat until fruit is translucent, then place in food processor (preferably) or blender and process until the fruit is in small pieces, but not a puree. Taste - it should be quite tart. If it's too sweet, add lemon juice. Serve when cool, or keep in the fridge in sterilised jar. Just before serving, stir in some Grand Marnier or Cointreau.

Glaceed kumquats are also delicious - one of the few fruits that retain some semblance of their original flavour through all that sugar. They're also extremely difficult to make - the syrup needs to be boiled to precise densities, then cooled, over several days. Whole kumquats in syrup are easier, and if you like, you can drain them well and roll in castor sugar just before serving.

Prick the fruit in several places with a fork, then blanch in boiling water. Drain. Bring equal parts of sugar and water to boil in a saucepan and add strained fresh lemon juice. Wash down any sugar crystals on the side of the pan with a pastry brush (this prevents the syrup from crystallising). Add the whole kumquats and simmer very gently, without stirring, until fruit is tender and translucent. Sometimes the fruit collapses, but leave in the syrup overnight (at room temperature, covered with a clean tea towel), and they should re-absorb the syrup and plump up again.