This young Tuscan red is a well-rounded, jolly drop. This is precisely the sort of good, honest and inexpensive wine that is pushing up Italian wine sales. The 98 is tasty, uncomplicated and wonderful value. The main grape has to be sangiovese, although there is no indication of this on the bottle. A delightful quaffing red to glug down at an informal meal.

Jebsen: 2926 8777

Under $200

Grove Mill

$150

The Marlborough region of New Zealand's South Island is famed for sauvignon blanc. Pinot noir, another cool climate grape, is now following the crisp whites up the ladder of recognition. It's stylish with alluring undertones. The 98 slips down lithely. Drink slightly chilled with Canto-nese food, especially the hearty winter hot pots in earthenware dishes. The healthy smell mingles with the heavenly aroma of home cooking.

Northeast Wines & Spirits:

2873 5733

Over $200

Rosemount Balmoral

$465

Everybody knows Rose-mount. That's the big Aussie chardonnay, golden and sunny as Bondi Beach. True. But the estate winemakers long ago branched out from the Hunter Valley. This elegant, hand-crafted shiraz, made from premium fruit grown in the McLaren Vale in South Australia, has an intense varietal flavour, peppery and plummy. This flagship red of the Rosemount stable is reason for pride.

The 97 can hold its head high with top Europeans.

Oliver's: 2810 7710