This restaurant specialises in Shanghainese food and has a modern and inviting feel, with spacious booths along two walls and a scattering of tables in the middle of the room. Unfortunately, as the evening progressed and the room filled up, poor acoustics had everyone shouting to be heard. Luckily, attentive staff and excellent service meant we didn't need to work our lungs to be served.

The waiter recommended we tried half portions of the sou-chow smoked fish and five-spiced gluten balls ($40) to start, so that we could try both and leave room for the main course. The fish, we were warned, was bony, but it was well worth the effort and the gluten balls were savoury, having fully absorbed the spices.

From the specials menu, we chose the crispy freshwater garoupa in Shanghainese vinaigrette ($198). It arrived piping hot and colourfully presented with a mix of red and green peppers and pine nuts, but the spiciness of the red peppers didn't quite go with the tangy sauce. The fish was tender and flaky underneath the crispy batter, but anyone squeamish about eating whole fish (head and all) might want to give it a miss.