For the all-American experience as well as meals the size of Texas, the new LA Cafe in Admiralty offers an alternative to the Dan Ryans of this world. Unfortunately for LA Cafe, though, it is located way out of the action in the Far East Finance Centre, and it is difficult to find from Admiralty MTR station.
That could explain why the place was practically empty when we turned up on a Saturday evening. The absence of customers was emphasised by the bright lights and the noise of Formula One motor racing blaring from the TVs and echoing around the joint. However, the service was friendly and fast and the decor - 1950s Americana - is interesting and distracting.
They've also tried with the menu. There's a 'Burger and Bud' deal for $99, 'All American Favorites' ($95-$185) and 'Burgers and Dawgs' ($70-$95). There's also a special menu each evening - on this occasion including soup, a choice of lamb or sole fillet and chocolate brownie for dessert ($110) - though we gave it a miss.
For starters we opted for the Caesar salad ($60) and the Belgium mussels ($88). Both portions were large and, while the salad was fairly plain, the mussels were tasty, smothered in a creamy white-wine sauce.
The main courses were enormous. The vegetable burrito ($75) was reasonably tasty and the 'Snider' burger ($75), with a topping of blue cheese, bacon and onions, served its purpose of leaving me stuffed. Nothing more can be said really. The food was just big and satisfactory. It was the sort of glorified comfort fare that was soon forgotten but was pleasant enough at the time.
There was absolutely no room for dessert (the usual suspects, such as cheesecake and the like) and, with a couple of beers, the bill came to $497.
LA Cafe, G/F Far East Finance Centre, 16 Harcourt Road, Admiralty. Tel: 2583 2923. Open: 11am-midnight daily. $$$