Make sure you visit during Carnevale, Venice's answer to Mardi Gras. It's held during the fortnight before Lent [next year from February 1-12] and Venetians dress up in elaborate costumes and masks for the many balls, concerts and parties or simply to parade through the streets. Hotels are bursting at the seams, however, so booking months in advance is essential.

Avoid visiting in summer when Venice heaves with tourists and the canals smell terrible. Easter and the first half of August are unbearably busy too. We visited in November and although cold, it was wonderfully romantic and you could snuggle up and wander through the narrow cobbled streets without being jostled by the hordes.

It's such a cliche, but you can't visit Venice without sampling a Bellini at Harry's Bar. The fresh peach juice and Prosecco cocktail was invented here and though the bar's nothing special, and cramped, it's an institution. Marcel Proust, Lord Byron, Charlie Chaplin, Truman Capote, Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway were all patrons [Calle Vallaresso 1323, San Marco. Tel: 3904 1528 5777].

Libreria San Pantalon is a beautiful shop. It sells a great selection of hand-crafted stationery, including the famous Italian paper photo albums, notebooks and cards [Dorsoduro 3950, Salizada San Pantalon. Tel: 3904 1522 4436].

Burano, a fishing and lace-making community seven kilometres north of Venice, is a lovely day-trip. Bonbon-coloured houses line the streets, offering great photo opportunities. Take vaporetto 12 [a water 'bus' - an experience in itself] from the Fondamente Nuove - the journey takes 40 minutes.

In most Italian bars and cafes, having a coffee at the bar [al banco] is cheaper than having one seated [al tavola], particularly alfresco. And don't drink cappuccino after midday - you'll scream 'foreigner'.

Next week: Sri Lanka