The 2004 edition of Lonely Planet's Hong Kong & Macau guide has landed on the desks of the SCMP.

But what's this? No more does the smoggy skyline of Central greet readers - instead it's a junk sailing over a glittering sea, and traditional fortune papers in a temple. If you remember, the previous edition's cover sparked outrage for daring to remind us that Hong Kong sometimes has a pollution problem.

But the decision to change the cover had nothing to do with the complaints, says Anna Bolger, marketing and communications manager at Lonely Planet. 'Some people like the cover, some people don't. But we never change a cover to appease people,' she explained. But more importantly, what's inside the guide? Here's Lonely Planet's top five list of clubs and bars in Central and Soho. You know who to blame if tourists start taking up the best seats. Alibi ('A beautiful space for beautiful people'); C Club ('Fur on the walls and punters in bed'); Club 64 ('Chilled, unfussed bar for non-poseurs'); Dragon-i ('Country-like terrace bar'); Feather Boa ('Part camp lounge, part bordello').