Hedi Slimane brought down the house in Paris with a rocking Dior Homme collection. More street than strict, it featured red redingotes, parkas, motorcycle jackets (above right), Indie-boy stripes, super-skinny jeans and maxi-kilts, sent out en masse to thunderous applause and a striking light show. In Milan, Tom Ford's swansong at Gucci (right, he will show his final womenswear collection there at the end of the month) showcased all his signatures: decadent fur coats, velvet dinner jackets, butterfly bow-ties and superbly tailored playboys swaggering, whisky glass and cigarette in hand, past an assortment of scantily clad pole dancers.