Pass by Kimberley Street, Tsim Sha Tsui, the narrow street that links Carnarvon and Observatory roads, and you miss the most authentic, down-to-Earth Korean experience available short of going to the Land of the Morning Calm.

Helping new Korean arrivals to Hong Kong combat any homesickness is the Chang Won Korean Restaurant, a feature on the street for 28 years and owned by Korean chef Choi Young. According to manager Wong Yik-kin, most customers are Koreans who miss the taste of genuine home cuisine because most other Korean restaurants in the city have adapted their dishes to suit local tastes. 'Our dishes are pure Korean, like the grilled octopus and kalbi [below], so they are best-sellers,' Wong says, serving a diner from Seoul.

Chang Won is a low-profile establishment: no flashing lights, no gaudy flags. The interior is cosy and the seven tables have barbecue pits. By staying off the restaurant radar it has remained a secret treasure for epicures, Korean or otherwise.