Cape wineries in South Africa
The Cape's mild, sunny climate lends itself to growing fruit, and for wine lovers, that means grapes. A trip to South Africa's southernmost province isn't complete without an excursion to the wineries, a perfect excuse to taste to your heart's content and pick up some wine on the cheap.
Cape Town is a fine base from which to explore the vineyards. The city is home to the oldest South African vineyard, Groot Constantia (tel: 27 21 794 5128) and its sibling Klein Constantia (tel: 27 21 794 5188), which lie on the back slopes of Table Mountain and lend their name to one of Cape Town's most upmarket neighbourhoods, which now surrounds them. Constantia dates back to 1685, when the land was granted to the property's first owner, and it supplied the Dutch East India Company and its British successors. Napoleon demanded Constantia wine after his exile on the island of St Helena in 1816, and his entourage drank much of its production for the five years until his death in 1821. With that history, it's no surprise Groot Constantia has an excellent wine museum. It is also well-known for its restaurants, and visitors can order picnic baskets and take them into the grounds.
Constantia is an oddity - one of the world's few urban vineyards. The rest of the wine country is a straightforward 45-minute drive to the north of the city. It's an easy day-trip, but visitors should consider spending a night or two in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, sleepy towns in the heart of wine territory. The bulk of South Africa's wineries are a short drive from either town.
There are 388 wine cellars in the country, and a visit to any of them is a feast for the eyes as much as the palate. Most wineries boast beautiful Cape Dutch architecture and lush landscapes that make an outing a pleasure for all the senses. Each winery also has a character as distinctive as that of its wines. Some are working farms (right), others quiet homesteads, still others full resort destinations with accommodation and other amenities.
Some old-school vineyards still offer free tastings and cellar tours, but South Africa's wine industry is increasingly commercial. At the slicker operations visitors are charged about R12 a sitting, or pay for the wine tasted. Sometimes you have to pay a deposit for the glass.
South African wine doesn't represent the value it used to, but still tends to be cheap compared to European wine in particular. A mid-priced bottle will cost R40 to R90, with better deals on cases of a dozen. Wineries can also arrange shipping, although the cost may match the price of the wine. South Africa allows tourists to claim back the 14 per cent sales tax when they leave the country. Although you can't claim for food and drink, you can claim on wine you buy for export from vineyards, so it is worth saving the receipts.
