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Rich pickings

Mascarpone is a buttery, double- or triple-cream cheese made from cow's milk, which was probably created in the 16th or 17th century in the Lombardy region of Italy, where it remains a speciality. The delicate milky-white cheese is a versatile ingredient used in savoury and sweet dishes, such as tiramisu, to enrich risotto and to sweeten and blend with fruit.

It has been said mascarpone comes from the Spanish mas que bueno, which translates as 'better than good', which is true. It is an expensive ingredient but there is no substitute for its rich and luscious texture. Please don't use cheaper cream cheese for these dishes because their texture is stiff and sticky instead of creamy.

Tiramisu (pictured)

There are many versions of this popular dessert. Some have thick layers of sponge cake and only a tiny amount of mascarpone filling; others are stabilised with gelatine so they cut into neat slices. This version oozes slightly when cut but the taste is wonderful.

240 grams mascarpone

2 large eggs, separated

100 grams sugar, divided

30ml Kahlua

120ml unsweetened heavy (whipping)

cream, chilled

A pinch of salt

12-24 Savoiardi biscuits (Italian ladyfingers, available in packets)

Bittersweet chocolate shavings, made

by scraping a bar of chocolate with a vegetable peeler

Cocoa powder for dusting

For dipping the biscuits:

About 400ml strong coffee

15 grams sugar

30ml sweet Marsala

Mix the 15 grams of sugar with the coffee until dissolved, then add the Marsala and set aside to cool. Use an electric mixer to whip the mascarpone briefly with 50 grams of sugar, then whip in the egg yolks one at a time. Do not whip too much or the mascarpone will separate. Stir in the Kahlua.

Wash the beaters and dry them. In a clean, dry bowl whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they are foamy, then slowly add the remaining sugar, whipping until soft-medium peaks form. Mix a third of the whites into the mascarpone to lighten the mixture. Gently fold in half the remaining whites, keeping as much volume as possible, then carefully fold in the last of the whites.

Pour the cream into the bowl used to whip the whites (no need to wash the beaters or bowl) and whip until soft-medium peaks form. Mix a third of the whipped cream into the mascarpone to lighten the mixture, then carefully fold in the rest of the cream in two additions, keeping as much volume as possible.

Dip one Savoiardi biscuit into the coffee mixture until it is saturated but not falling apart. Squeeze out excess moisture then break the biscuit in half and put in the bottom of an individual glass dessert dish. Repeat for five more dishes. Top the biscuits with a large blob of mascarpone filling then sprinkle lightly with chocolate shavings.

Soak more Savoiardi, squeezing out excess liquid, and put 1 ? biscuits on top of the mascarpone filling. Press down on the second layer of biscuits to spread the mascarpone filling - the layers do not have to be neat.

Divide the remaining filling among the glasses and smooth out the tops. Cover the dishes with plastic wrap then refrigerate for several hours. Just before serving, sprinkle with chocolate shavings and dust lightly with cocoa powder.

This can also be made in a 20cm-square dish using 10-12 soaked Savoiardi biscuits placed end to end and across. Use your hands to flatten the biscuits slightly; if necessary, fill in empty spaces with small pieces of soaked biscuits. Spread slightly less than half the filling over the biscuits then sprinkle with chocolate shavings. Top with another layer of biscuits then spread the remaining filling evenly over the top. Wrap with cellophane and refrigerate for several hours, then sprinkle with chocolate shavings and dust lightly with cocoa powder.

Pasta primavera with mascarpone

350 grams spaghetti

30 grams unsalted butter

20ml oil

1 small onion, halved and sliced

2 cloves garlic, sliced

2 medium zucchinis

2 medium yellow squash

8 thick spears green asparagus (or 16

thin spears)

200 grams frozen petits pois

18 small local red plum tomatoes, halved

180 grams mascarpone cheese

30 grams toasted pine nuts

Chopped parsley

Torn leaves of fresh basil

Grated parmesan

Salt and pepper to taste

Trim and discard the ends of the zucchini and yellow squash, then cut into thick matchstick pieces. Trim the ends of the asparagus and peel the stalks if they are tough. Cut the spears on the diagonal into 3cm pieces. Heat a large pot of salted water and when it boils add the asparagus and blanch for about 30 seconds (if using thin spears, blanch for only 10 seconds).

Add the petits pois to the pot, cook for 10 seconds and immediately drain the vegetables and refresh under cold water. Start cooking the spaghetti in a large pot of salted water.

In a large pan, melt the butter, add the oil and when it is hot, cook the onion and garlic until soft and translucent. Add the zucchini and yellow squash, sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until they are crisp-tender. Add the asparagus and green peas and cook, stirring often, until all the vegetables are tender.

When the spaghetti is cooked, drain it and add to the pan. Stir in the tomatoes and mascarpone and let the cheese melt to form a rich sauce (if it is too thick to coat the strands of pasta, stir in a little water). Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Stir in pine nuts, parsley, basil and parmesan cheese. Serve immediately, with more parmesan cheese if desired. Serves four.

Polenta with mascarpone and fresh tomatoes

This is a simple, comforting dish. Instant polenta cooks quickly but the regular variety has more texture.

200 grams polenta

800ml water

1 tsp fine-flaked salt

60 grams unsalted butter

? cup finely grated parmesan cheese

Approximately 200 grams mascarpone

Fresh local plum tomatoes, halved

Fresh basil leaves, roughly torn

Freshly ground black pepper

If using instant polenta, follow the directions on the package. If using regular polenta, put it in a heavy pan and add half the water. Stir to remove the lumps then leave to soak for 15 minutes. Put the pan over a medium-low flame and cook, stirring constantly, until the polenta starts to bubble. Add the salt and the remaining water and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until all the water is absorbed and the polenta starts to pull away from the sides of the pan.

Lower the heat and finish cooking - it needs 30-40 minutes in total. Use a whisk to beat out any lumps. Stir in the butter, parmesan cheese and about 60 grams of mascarpone. Divide into bowls and top each portion with a big blob of mascarpone, some plum tomatoes, basil leaves and freshly ground pepper. Serves four to six.

STYLING Leonie van Hasselt

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