On October 12, 2002, Bali fell victim to the deadliest act of terrorism in Indonesia's history. Three bombs were detonated in busy nightclubs in the popular Kuta district, killing 202 people and injuring more than 200 others. Among the dead were 11 tourists from Hong Kong, 88 Australians and 38 Indonesians. Members of Jemaah Islamiyah, a violent Islamist group, were convicted over the bombings and in November 2008 Imam Samudra, Amrozi Nurhasyim and Huda bin Abdul Haq were executed by firing squad.
Bali is back on track and its shops are filled with beautiful things to buy. Ask your hotel or villa staff to hire you a car and driver for the morning and have them trail you as you splash out in Seminyak, north of Kuta and Legian. The car should only cost US$20-25 and trust us - you'll need help to carry all the treasure you're going to find.
Start your Spree on Jalan Laksmana, near the Oberoi hotel, and make your first stop Shalom (No. 60, tel: 62 817 945 1077), which specialises in mirrors and frames, Venetian in style but fashioned in Java. Nearby, G&V (No. 99, tel: 62 361 731 916) stocks smart silver bijouterie and tableware and is excellent for unusual gifts. Around the corner but on the same street you'll find art gallery Kebath (No. 7, tel: 62 361 736 178), which stocks contemporary works by local artists, and opposite, Yes (No. 7B, tel: 62 361 736 687), selling stylish aluminium tableware.
Turn right onto Jalan Raya Basangkasa and you'll find stalwart Bali Gucci (No. 4B, tel: 62 361 730 515), which stocks a vast range of authentic, and not-so-authentic, ethnic antiques. Around the next corner and first on the right is Ichi dan Ilha (tel: 62 361 733 599), which has good-quality rustic muslin and cotton cushions, drapes and hammocks. At No. 89, Galery Kembung (tel: 62 361 734 818) sells contemporary paintings and stunning terrazzo vases, while Daagne at No. 88 has beautiful home accessories.
Tired tootsies? You're in luck: one of Bali's best little spas, Jari Menari, is at No. 47 (tel: 62 361 736 740, www. jarimenari.com) and offers a 45-minute foot massage for 120,000 rupiah (HK$100). Next door, Galeri Esok Lusa (tel: 62 361 735 262) deals in glass sculptures by celebrated Japanese artist Seiki Torige.
Jump into your car and head down to Kasai at No. 28B (tel: 62 361 737 015) for pretty separates and ethnic, drifty women's wear. The Randelli gallery at number No. 20 (tel: 62 361 731 488) has all manner of pop art (above) and in Grotto (No. 3A, tel: 62 361 731 094) you'll find yoga mats and candles. Across the road is Cafe Moka (tel: 62 361 731 424), a favourite haunt of expatriates and a good place to re-fuel on fresh baguettes. Sunbebek (No. 6, tel: 62 361 732 715) sells stylish linen clothing for all ages, as well as great bags and jewellery. Serene at No. 47 (tel: 62 361 738 611) is always worth a look for its stylish home accessories and ceramics, and don't miss Biasa (No. 36, tel: 62 361 730 308), which specialises in the Bali look: floaty super-fine linen and cotton separates in delicious mix-and-match colours. It also stocks good menswear upstairs. A few doors down is the Biasa discount shop, selling fabrics and discontinued stock at half price, and opposite is Paul Ropp (No. 39, tel: 62 361 734 208), a fine Bali label that offers ethnic, jewel-coloured apparel.
Grant Thatcher (editor of Luxe City Guides; www. luxecityguides.com).