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Las Vegas factor tests Macau's cultural appeal

Much of Macau's appeal lies in the successful blending of Cantonese culture with its Portuguese past. But as it continues to transform itself into Asia's answer to Las Vegas, Macau is facing a new test of its ability to reconcile different aspects of its identity. The challenge is to bring in the new without losing the old.

The push to develop Macau as an all-singing, all-dancing mega-gambling casino hub is now well advanced. The big players from the US have moved in with their billion-dollar projects and the high rollers have followed. Glitzy new casinos are rapidly springing up to meet the expected demand. Welcome to Macau, the bold, brash destination for tourists who enjoy a flutter.

This is not, however, the image Macau has traditionally enjoyed. While it might be happy to finally ditch the 'sleepy enclave' tag, the former Portuguese colony is determined not to lose its appeal as a unique historical and cultural centre.

A recent decision by Unesco to consider giving coveted world heritage status to 12 of Macau's historic buildings is part of the drive to preserve and promote the city's Chinese-Portuguese heritage. Many of them are familiar to regular visitors from Hong Kong. Among the sites concerned are the ruins of St Paul's, the A Ma Temple, and the Guia Fortress, complete with its 136-year-old lighthouse - the oldest in China.

Preserving these treasures is important. But persuading the hoards of tourists flocking to Macau's casinos to take more interest in its history and culture might prove more difficult.

As was reported in yesterday's Post, only 15 per cent of the 11.9 million visitors to Macau last year visited one of its 15 museums. Many more would have attended the better-known cultural attractions. But most, it seems, preferred to spend their leisure time at the gaming tables.

This will be fine, if the 'cultural' tourists continue to visit Macau. But there is a danger that the Las Vegas factor - and the building boom that goes with it - will change Macau's image. It could easily lose its charm - and much of its non-gambling appeal.

The government hopes to tackle this by effectively splitting the city into different sectors.

Gamblers will be encouraged to head for the casino strips - one near the ferry pier and the other on the once tranquil causeway between the islands of Taipa and Coloane.

Those seeking Macau's historical and cultural attractions will be directed towards different parts of the city where, it is hoped, the old Macau will survive.

It remains to be seen whether the strategy will work. We hope that it will. But Macau has, for sound economic reasons, committed itself to the casino extravaganza.

The juggernaut is now speeding along, and it might prove difficult to stop.

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