Red Capital Ranch
Where? Tucked next to romantic, crumbling remains of the Great Wall in Spirit Pavilion Valley, about 70 kilometres north of Beijing, the Red Capital Ranch is modelled on a traditional Manchurian hunting lodge. This is an appropriate theme because the ranch is located just outside the wall, in the barbarian lands of old.
Luxurious or basic? This is for the well-heeled who like to settle back with a glass or three of excellent wine while admiring the sun setting behind the grey, stone watchtowers of the Wall. It offers 10 elegantly appointed, standalone guest rooms, inside and outside dining, a Tibetan Tiger Lounge and a Warlord's Lounge, a tea house and a cigar pavilion. A river runs through the 3.5-hectare property, which was a Ming-dynasty (1368-1644) battleground. A section of the wall dips into the water to emerge on the other side and climb the opposite mountain. This bit is believed to date from the original wall built by the Qin emperor (around 200BC).
Who should visit? Those looking for absolute quiet, as well as good eating and drinking. Lovers of nature and of culture who appreciate the way traditional Chinese aesthetics blends the two will love the views of the wall snaking around the hills above, and the four watchtowers visible on the crest of the mountains.
What else is there to do? Principally, this is a place to walk and appreciate the scenery. Pull on your climbing boots and head to the hills, always following the wall where you can. A spa will come online soon for more R&R. The kitchen offers picnic lunches for days out.
What's on the menu? Manchu, Mongolian, Tibetan, straight-up Chinese ... it's all there. The wild grasses in a peanut-flavoured sauce and corn patties packed with walnuts are delicious. Yak tea and leg of lamb are available. The Ranch also serves a fine western breakfast.
Anything else we should know? Guests at the Red Capital Residence in Beijing can choose to spend a night or two at the Ranch for the same price. The bare trees in winters make the views even more spectacular. At US$188 a night, this place is expensive, but an excellent choice for people who want to drink in the Great Wall in the changing light of dawn, noon and dusk.