Denim revolution
IT WAS A crisp morning in Hong Kong and I was ready to hit the shops. My mission: to find a pair of jeans that made my butt look like J.Lo's - with a little-known brand that no one had heard of and at an affordable price tag. My first port of call was Lane Crawford, home to Hong Kong's socialites and fashionistas. Once I hit the denim corner I was overwhelmed by what seemed like thousands of pairs in every colour, type, shape, length and style you could imagine.
Jeans of today have come a long way from their material's humble origins in Genoa, Italy. What once served as work gear for American miners is now a status symbol among the rich and famous. Jeans have evolved from a casual wardrobe staple to a highly coveted (and glamorous) piece of couture that can easily cost more than $1,000 a pop. At the highest end, a line called APO recently set a new record with jeans retailing for up to $30,000, thanks to the gold, silver and platinum buttons, rivets, and diamond detailing.
The origins of denim couture can be traced back about two years, when a niche brand known as Seven jeans revolutionised the market with their form-fitting styles and unusual washes. This was the beginning of a denim revolution that would have women giving up their GAP pairs for much trendier, more expensive counterparts that weren't Gucci and Prada, but could surpass them in price and quality.
'The trend towards more casual clothing coupled with the success of designer jeans [from brands such as Chanel and D&G] has meant that people no longer view denim as a causal wear, but as an important fashion element,' says Helen Chan, a buyer at Hong Kong Seibu.
New York-born Eizelle Taino, the founder and owner of Indigo, Hong Kong's first and only denim bar, is one of the many people cashing in on denim's new-found status. 'People's mentality of what jeans are has changed,' she says. 'When you asked women what they looked for in jeans 10 years ago, it was practicality or comfort. Now, when I ask people what they want, they want [a pair] to make them look good. If the jeans are comfortable too, then it's all the better.'
Of course, such ludicrously priced jeans have to have some merit to them. Along with better fits, styles and clever marketing (Gwyneth Paltrow practically made Blue Cult the 'it' jean after she wore a pair to a film premiere), comes particular attention to quality and detail.
'Quality and fit is the big difference,' says Taino. 'Every line is different, but what one or all of them will boast is time in production. It's also about where they source their denim; Japanese and Italian denim are more of a premium.'
'Fabrics used in couture denim brands are usually finer, so that a detailed wash effect can be featured,' says Chan. 'Intense studies on women's body shape have also been undertaken by most brands, which is why they are so successful. Jeans aren't necessarily just a fashion item but a body shaping tool.'
Taino and Chan say distressed jeans will be come back next season, along with details such as crystals and embroidery. Also, watch out for a pronounced vintage feel with damaged/destroyed washes and ink/paint detailing that create an industrial look. There's also a trend for trouser-like jeans that can be worn to work or after-hours.
Word on the street is that the next big lines will be Meli-Melo, Salt Works Jeans and Paige Premium denim (which is developed by Paige Adams-Geller, who was the original fit model for Seven, Citizens of Humanity and Blue Cult).
To keep up with the new trends, more established denim lines such as Levi's, CK Jeans and Diesel are also upping the ante, with new collections that are just as pricey and that boast better quality denim and design. Levi's new Diva collection sold out in Japan when it was first launched (despite the $1,500 price) and is set to do even better in Hong Kong and on the mainland.
'I don't think this whole denim craze will slow down anytime soon because these designers have gotten very clever and know how to stay fresh,' says Taino. 'Most of my customers are not first-time buyers of premium denim, they are collectors who are on their 10th pair.
'A lot of editors have been saying for a long time that the market is topped out. But as long as designers are thinking of ways to keep it fresh for the consumers, I don't see it happening any time soon.'
And my choice of jeans? I bought a pair of Yanuk's and feel great.
Blue Cult
Designer: Caroline Athias and David Mechaly (who designed 70s denim favourite, the MacKeen Jean, which was worn by the likes of Farah Fawcett).
Pedigree: Founded in 1999, but Gwyneth Paltrow put them on the fashion map. She now has a style named after her.
The look: Great for any occasion and especially those who need a rear-lift. Expect unique detailed stitching and hand-rubbed vintage finishing.
Worn by: Cameron Diaz and J.Lo.
Where: Indigo (G/F, 32A Staunton Street, Central, tel: 2147 3000); Lane Crawford (IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2118 3388); Seibu (Pacific Place, Admiralty, tel: 2971 3888).
Price: $1,390-$1,500
Chip & Pepper
Designer: Twins Chip and Pepper Foster.
Pedigree: The twins have had numerous jobs, including their own TV show. The mission behind their denim line was to give people an affordable vintage line.
The look: Sexy yet relaxed. Their best-seller continues to be the Malibu, which features a low waist and loose fit.
Worn by: Debra Messing and Sandra
Bullock.
Where: Lane Crawford and Joyce (Queen's Road Central, tel: 2810 1120).
Price: $1,690-$2,400
Earnest Sewn
Designer: Scott Morrison, who was behind cult jeans label Paper Denim & Cloth.
Pedigree: The ex-pro golfer founded Paper Denim & Cloth in 1999 and revolutionised the jeans market. Mixes traditional American denim work wear with the ancient Japanese aesthetic system of wabi-sabi - roughly translated as beauty in imperfection.
The look: For diehard denim fans. Each pair takes 18 hours to make, but is worth it. Pockets are flattering to say the least and seams slim the legs.
Worn by: Ashley Scott.
Where: Indigo and Joyce Boutique
Price: $1,800-$2,250
Ellus Jeans
Designer: Some of Brazil's top young and trendy designers.
Pedigree: Ellus is the first and main premium denim brand in Brazil and has become a classic in South America - much as Levi's is in the US.
The look: The whole idea behind Ellus is that of freedom. The back pocket stitching of all their jeans has an upside down 'E' forming a flying bird.
Worn by: Cindy Crawford, Milla Jovovich and Alek Wek.
Where: Lane Crawford
Price: $1,200-$1,350
Kasil
Designer: David Lim.
Pedigree: Originally a fine arts major, Lim started Kasil in 2002 after creating jeans for himself.
The look: Cute, playful and flattering. All styles have his signature diamond back-pocket embroidery and he only uses quality ring-spun denims.
Worn by: Lucy Liu and Hilary Duff.
Where: Indigo
Price: $1,450
Notify
Designer: Maurice Ohayon, creator of Seven jeans.
Pedigree: Production is limited to 2,000 pieces (and has been since they were launched in the US).
The look: Upscale and dressy denim trouser. Known for their flattering 45-degree back pocket placement and hand-finished washes (without the use of bleach or acid). Popular cuts are Vega and Calypso.
Worn by: Many local celebrities plus Sarah Jessica Parker and Linda Evangelista
Where: Indigo, Lane Crawford, Seibu
Price: $1,690-$2,400
Oligo Tissew
Designer: Former BCBG designer Christopher Enuke.
Pedigree: One of the few Nigerian-born, London-raised designers in the luxury denim market.
The look: Sexy but classy with extra attention to pocket details, rivets, tack buttons and stitching. His jeans have no outside-leg seam.
Worn by: Catherine Zeta-Jones and Nicole Kidman
Where: Indigo, Seibu
Price range: $1,450-$1,600
Rock & Republic
Designer: Michael Ball
Pedigree: Ball started his LA company when he designed jeans for his girlfriend.
The look: Sexy and rock'n'roll-inspired (with each style named after a famous rock star), a perfect, low-slung fit.
Worn by: Britney Spears
Where: Indigo, Joyce Boutique
Price: $1,390-$1,600
True Religion
Designer: Husband and wife team Kym and Jeffrey Lubell.
Pedigree: Jeffrey was the man behind the Bella Dahl and Hippie jeans.
The look: Original and trendy. Think fashion-forward jeans with details such as embroidery, twisted seams and hand-sanded vintage washes and tears.
Worn by: Gwen Stefani (who bought nine pairs) and Kate Hudson.
Where: Lane Crawford
Price: $1,600-$2,150
Yanuk
Designer: Anouk Guez and designer pal Ya-el Torbati
Pedigree: Launched in 2003 and made headlines with their 'butt-lifting' effect.
The look: Comfortable fit that skims the hips and banishes love handles.
Worn by: Jessica Simpson, Charlize Theron and Mena Suvari
Where: Lane Crawford, Seibu
Price: $1,600-$1,700
1. Levi's Lady Style Diva jeans, $669 (26 Russell St, Causeway Bay, tel: 2575 1125); 2. Ellus Jeans Deluxe, $1,350 (Lane Crawford, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2118 3388); 3. Marc Jacobs basic fit low-rise jeans, $3,590 (Marc Jacobs, Shop 104, the Landmark, Central, tel: 2523 3324); 4. Rock & Republic Punk jeans, $1,650 (Indigo, G/F 32A Staunton St, Central, tel: 2147 3000); 5. Chip & Pepper jeans, $1,950 (Lane Crawford); 6. Notify jeans, $2,500 (Lane Crawford); 7. Diesel Nadar jeans, $1,690 (Shop 2323, the Gateway, TST, tel: 2117 0418); 8. Earnest Sewn Hefner boot cut, $1,750 (Indigo)
Styling: Divia Harilela and Lauren Crothers
