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Italian niche

Defying conventional wisdom that fine cuisine can't survive in the New Territories, Italian restaurant Oliva has been thriving in Tai Po for the past nine months. Started by 26-year-old Andy Lee Hon-chung, the bistro has built a regular clientele with its excellent dishes and affordable prices.

From seafood dishes of grilled sea bass with mixed herbs ($118) and clam spaghetti ($65 small, $95 regular) to the popular tea set with scones, fruit tart, biscuits, canapes and shrimp rolls ($58 for two), Lee has steered his own course in this uncharted territory.

'I know I am taking a risk opening a fine dining outlet in Tai Po,' Lee says. 'But I believe

there is a niche market in this area. There is no competition for Italian food here or anywhere in the New Territories.'

Not that others haven't tried. The recently defunct Osteria No 1 in Sai Kung also offered upmarket Italian cuisine, but ultimately couldn't find enough customers to ensure its survival. However, Lee's resourcefulness and experience at the Ritz-Carlton and Grappa's have been key to his success. Lee also worked at CafeDeco, from where he recruited his head pastry chef for Oliva's terrific cakes.

'He lives in Tai Po,' Lee says. 'I offered him the same salary as Cafe Deco and he agreed to work here. That's why all our cakes are home-made. Plus, we use quality ingredients from the same suppliers as many hotels and famous restaurants. But my cost advantage is my low rent.

'I've worked my way up from the bottom. But from my first day in the food and beverage industry back in 1998, I promised myself I'd someday own a restaurant. Fortunately, Oliva is doing better than I thought, so I am happy with the results so far. At the beginning it was difficult, because I had to educate local customers about proper Italian cuisine. I have been asked why my pasta is so hard or the risotto not thoroughly cooked.'

Lee describes Oliva as new-style Italian cuisine that often mixes traditional elements with ingredients such as taro, papaya or Chinese green turnip. The wishing tree may be closed but you have a new reason to head to Tai Po. Oliva is at shop 10, Treasure Garden, 1 On Chee Road, Tai Po, tel: 2665 0663.

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