Caprice

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 02 March, 2006, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 02 March, 2006, 12:00am
 

Four Seasons


8 Finance Street, Central


Tel: 3196 8888


Open: noon-2.30pm; 6pm-10.30pm (last orders)


Cuisine: Modern and traditional French.


Ambience: Dining for the moneyed crowd, with tables of tai-tais next to banker-types. The elegant, gold-coloured, split-level dining room is fitted with crystal-and-mirror chandeliers and a large open kitchen. A green lit pathway that looks like a catwalk divides the restaurant.


Price: Staggering. Our three-course meal was $1,100 per person, including 10 per cent service charge and one glass of the least expensive wine (it ranges from $100 to $230 per glass).


Pros: Floor-to-ceiling windows show off a stunning harbour view of Kowloon. The service was flawless, and the knowledgeable staff were attentive.


Cons: Given the prices, we were expecting fireworks from the food, but most of it was just OK - and the portions were small. The servers freely poured Perrier - then added $95 to the bill for a large bottle. The roasted Challans duck with caramelised endives and smooth chestnut puree ($360) was bland.


Recommended dishes: For starters, we ordered the ballotine of French foie gras ($290). It came as a disc of creamy pate, with a slightly bitter pomelo marmalade and sweet blackcurrant puree adding an extra layer of flavour. We enjoyed the spring vegetable fricassee ($140) - sauteed vegetables such as string beans, peas, capsicum and carrots paired with tiny bits of pickled carrots, cucumber and gherkins - but thought it would have been better as a side dish than an appetiser. The winner was the sea bass with baby artichoke sauce, melted onions and black olive tapenade ($350, above). The perfectly cooked fish was baked and seared, sealing in the delicate flavours. For dessert, the coffee-flavoured tart with Arabica ice cream and shot of frappuccino ($130) was sinfully delicious. The coconut and pineapple dacquoise (layers of nut meringue) and pistachio creme brulee ($130) topped with rice crisps, and sorbet was a fresh, fruity finish.


What else? There's an eight-course tasting menu ($1,050) and a four-course set menu ($780). For special occasions, reserve one of three private rooms (up to 12 people) or a spot by the kitchen at the chef's table.

Share

Send to a friend

To forward this article using your default email client (e.g. Outlook), click here.

Caprice

Enter multiple addresses separated by commas(,)

CAPTCHA
This question is for testing whether or not you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions.
Image CAPTCHA
Enter the characters shown in the image.

Related topics