balsamic vinegar
Most of what we think of as balsamic vinegar isn't the real stuff, at least from the view of traditional aceto balsamico makers in Italy.
What is it? Aceto balsamico is made by a consortium of producers in the Modena and Reggio Emilia regions of Italy. It is composed solely of grapes that are simmered in a vat over an open fire to reduce and concentrate the liquid. It is then fermented and aged for a minimum of 12 years in wooden barrels. At the other end of the scale is mass-produced liquid made from vinegar mixed with caramel, which adds colour and sweetness. In between the two extremes are decent-to-good versions produced in countries other than Italy (or made outside the two 'official' aceto balsamico regions), which are usually aged for less time and/or according to less stringent standards than those the authentic producers adhere to.
What are the differences? Real balsamic is a thick, intense syrup with perfectly balanced sweet and tart flavours. The cheapest balsamics are thin, watery and sharp tasting. The mid-priced versions vary according to age and producer.
What else? Aceto balsamico can cost about $1,000 for a small bottle. You can make a fake version of the aged stuff by simmering a less expensive balsamic until it concentrates into a thick syrup. If the vinegar was too sour to begin with, it will taste even more tart when concentrated; if needed, simmer it with a little sugar. This probably won't fool anybody if tasted on its own, but it works well enough when mixed with other ingredients.
How to use: the real balsamic is best appreciated on its own - a few, intense drops on a plate, or sipped from a spoon (it's believed to work as a digestif).
Unless you're very wealthy, the best balsamic vinegars for everyday use are the mid-priced versions. They still seem expensive - at least compared with other vinegars - but they can be used in marinades, vinaigrettes, sauces and for drizzling over finished dishes, without making you feel like you're pouring money down the drain. The next time you're having a barbecue, grill vegetables (such as fennel bulbs, tomatoes, eggplants and capsicums) over the fire then toss them with balsamic mixed with extra virgin olive oil to make a simple but delicious accompaniment to grilled meats and seafood.
