In 1935, he travelled to the US to continue his studies at the University of Georgia. A year later, he was awarded a skiing scholarship to Reed College, Oregon, where he majored in social sciences and received a master's degree in 1937. In 1941, he received a doctorate in political science from the University of Florence.

During the second world war, he served as a fighter pilot in the Italian Air Force.

His fashion career began unexpectedly when a streamlined ski outfit he designed was photographed by Harper's Bazaar in 1947.

The magazine encouraged Pucci to create a winter collection for women, which was then sold in various stores in New York.

In 1949, he opened a boutique in Capri dedicated to resort wear inspired by the island. It featured bright colours, silk twill shirts, striped jersey tops and the newly created Capri trousers, which took the world by storm.

In 1951, his first show took place, in Florence. Pucci quickly made a name for himself with his signature prints, inspired by Sicilian mosaics and the bright flags used during the Palio horse race in Siena.

The graphic and abstract designs featured a combination of pastel colours and geometric shapes and won him the title of 'Prince of Prints' from the fashion media. He also patented several fabrics including stretch and cotton jersey.

His first haute couture collection was presented in 1962 and paid homage to Jackie Kennedy. Throughout the 1960s and 70s, the brand gained popularity among the wealthy.

Women loved Pucci's sexy, free-flowing designs that followed the natural curves of the body.

In the 70s, Pucci became a politician and was elected to Italian parliament.

He also began labelling and selling the wine produced on his estate Chianti, which had been in his family since the 13th century.

In 1989, there was a revival in Pucci prints and celebrities such as Madonna and Paloma Picasso were often seen wearing his retro designs. In 1990, Pucci retired.

After his death two years later at the age of 78, his 30-year-old son Alessandro took over the family business and estates for just eight years until he was killed in a car accident in 2000.

An alliance was then formed between the Pucci family and French luxury conglomerate LVMH, which acquired 67 per cent of the company. Pucci's daughter Laudomia still serves as image director.

In November, LVMH president Bernard Arnault recruited Puerto Rican designer Julio Espada to revamp the Pucci label. His tenure was short-lived and he was replaced by French designer Christian Lacroix in 2002. His first show for spring/summer 2003 was based on the brand's psychedelic prints, and featured mostly dresses.

In later collections he transformed the Pucci signature print into patchwork furs and multicoloured fox hats.

Who's behind it now?

Lacroix's last collection for the label was spring/summer 2006. British designer Matthew Williamson was appointed creative director last year and designed his first collection for autumn/winter 2006.

The look?

For his last collection, Lacroix returned to the label's Mediterranean roots and included shift and jersey dresses, gladiator sandals, silk twill scarf shirts and shorts, inspired by the Pucci look. Swimsuits come in swirls of blue, mauve and pink.

For Williamson's debut, he drew on his signature colour palette combining them with a touch of the brand's classic 60s swirling prints.

The show also featured floaty V-neck dresses and round-collared frocks in purple and lilac hues worn with ladylike black tights. Solid colour items such as knit trouser suits were matched with beanie hats, scarves and fox-trimmed alpaca or brocade coats.

Who wears it?

Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Lauren and Jackie Kennedy were fans during Pucci's heyday. Current fans include Madonna, Nicole Kidman and Sienna Miller.

Fun fact

The Apollo 15 space crew took a Pucci-designed flag with them to plant on the moon.

Where?

Emilio Pucci is available at Lane Crawford, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2118 3388; and Joyce, Queen's Rd Central, tel: 2810 1120.