Castiglioni initially joined Marni, named after her sister-in-law, as a fashion consultant to breathe fresh life into the company at a time when the fur industry had hit a dry spell.

The goal of Castiglioni's first collection, in 1995, was to make fur modern and wearable. Featuring a few hip pieces for women, crafted from the finest pelts and leather, she showed traces of what would become Marni's trademark style - tailored, romantic quirkiness.

Castiglioni quickly followed this boutique collection with her first complete women's collection at Milan Fashion Week. Offbeat details, contrasting textures, natural fabrics and bold colours were all pulled together with precise tailoring.

Her vibrantly coloured clothes were decorated with modern appliques and beading, and crafted with unexpected drapes and tucks in the fabric.

Subsequent collections have been lauded by fashion editors and credited with pioneering the bohemian chic look, by combining cutting-edge fabrics and prints with eclectic details.

'Consuelo Castiglioni's Marni label perfectly balances casual with elegance, so that you know, if you're wearing it, that you're safe in a spectrum of dress codes,' says Dolly Jones of British Vogue.

Using an in-house workforce, Castiglioni oversees the production of every piece she designs. 'We're lucky in Italy,' she says. 'We have many good people with the necessary skills. There's also a big advantage of being in Milan close to the fabric companies. If we want to try something different, they're ready to experiment and they get involved in the whole process.'

In the beginning, Marni was carried by smaller boutiques such as Joseph. In 2000, the brand opened its first shops in London and Milan, soon followed by Paris, New York, Tokyo, Dubai, Rome, Los Angeles and Hong Kong last year. A full menswear collection was launched in 2002 and for spring/summer 2005, she designed her first collection of evening gowns in brightly coloured taffeta with ribbon waistbands.

No two Marni shops are the same; instead, each follows a similar mould that's adjusted to suit its particular location.

The look

Known for her quirky printed fabrics and casual layering of natural materials, such as linen and stiff cotton, with romantic slips and gossamer fabrics, Marni takes a whimsical approach to fashion. In the past, Castiglioni has paired floral prints with striped trousers or sequined boleros with casual cotton tanktops. Incorporating fur and leather into her collections, Castiglioni adds a tough element to her femininity with luxe fur jackets, sexy leather vests and zip-detailed pants.

The autumn/winter womenswear collection reveals a more mature, sombre approach to layering and focuses on separates that allow for mixing and matching. Smooth wools and tweeds in colours such as navy, cocoa brown and charcoal grey are mixed with peachy satin tops, silky graphic floral-printed blouses and accessories such as cream patent leather belts.

Coats and jackets hit at unexpected lengths with sleeves that graze the wrist. Acrylic and wood jewellery accent dresses in unusual shapes paired with wool tights and sleek pumps or boots.

For men, this season's collection relies on darker colours in traditional materials such as English twill, striped or checkered tweed and thick wool canete contrasted with sculptural fabrics such as felt, corduroy and diagonal doubled nylon. Bold colours on geometrically printed shirts and ties, metal pins, striped scarves and hats add pops of colour to the otherwise navy, grey and brown collection. The look is classically tailored but with Marni's signature twist.

Fun fact

Castiglioni is a big fan of Comme des Garcon's Rei Kawakubo. 'She has a completely different look to me, but there is incredible talent there,' she says. 'I love Japanese fashion design because it goes beyond fashion into a kind of art.'

Who wears it?

Kirsten Dunst, the Olsen twins Mary-Kate and Ashley, Reese Witherspoon and British Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers.

What else can I buy?

Children's wear, handbags, footwear, accessories, eyewear

and selected home furnishings.

Where can I buy it?

There are two boutiques in Hong Kong - Shop 214, the Landmark, Central, tel: 2845 7632; and Shop 118-9, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, TST, tel: 2118 2508. Select pieces are also available at Lane Crawford and Joyce Boutiques.