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Hotel de la Cite, Carcassonne

Where is it? An hour's drive from Blagnac Airport in Toulouse takes you to the hilly outskirts of France's Cathar region in the Pyrenees. At the medieval walled town of Carcassonne, turrets and watchtowers pierce the sky; some of them belong to the Hotel de la Cite.

Luxurious or basic? The sprawling property, which sits opposite the town castle and within the Carcassonne ramparts, offers aristocratic luxury amid solid stone walls - not forgetting soft bed linen, bathrobes and slippers. It used to be an episcopal palace, after all. Pad down to the only heated outdoor swimming pool in the region, which comes with views of the gothic Basilica of Saint-Nazaire. In 1096, Pope Urbain II visited Carcassonne and blessed the stones that would be used to build the church.

Who should visit? Anyone who read fairy stories as a child: Walt Disney was said to have based his castle in Sleeping Beauty on fortress Carcassonne, which luxuriates in its World Heritage status. Anyone who loves wine: the region has been producing outstanding red, white and rose vintages since Roman times. And any adults who have acted in fairy stories: previous guests include Johnny Depp. Others from the ranks of the great and the good to have signed the guestbook include Princess Grace of Monaco, Queen Elizabeth II and French President Jacques Chirac.

What's on the menu? The medieval details and flourishes of the Hotel de la Cite are not confined to cellars and ramparts. In the Michelin-starred restaurant, La Barbacane, chefs resurrect dishes that have all but disappeared from many menus, including veal sweetbreads. Hearty ingredients such

as chestnuts, pumpkin and fennel seldom go unemployed.

What is there to do? When you have finished exploring your slice of medieval Europe, cruise the waters of the 17th-century Canal du Midi to the historic village port of Trebes. Or take a trip to the nearby Cote Vermeil (Ruby Coast), an extension of Spain's Costa Brava, whose Mediterranean light has dazzled Matisse and Picasso, among many illustrious and creative others.

What's the bottom line? A night at the Hotel de la Cite costs from Euro375 (HK$3,800), while a one-bedroom suite costs Euro1,250.

Hotel de La Cite is at Place Auguste-Pierre, Pont 11000, Carcassonne, France, tel: 33 4 6871 9871, fax: 33 4 6871 5015; www.hoteldelacite.com.

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