ham
'Ham' is such a small word yet it encompasses a huge range of delicious products.
What is it? Anatomically, it refers to a specific cut of meat from the pig's hindquarters. Occasionally, the word refers to a way of processing meat that's not necessarily pork (for example, duck ham).
How is it available? Pork ham can be cooked fresh or made into many varieties of cured meat, including prosciutto, Yunnan ham, Bayonne or pata negra. Curing involves salting the meat, air-drying and/or smoking it, then ageing, which dries the meat (giving less yield) and intensifies the flavour. This process was originally used as a way to preserve meat in the days before refrigeration. Another method of curing is to soak the meat or inject it with flavoured brine. This wet-curing won't preserve the ham without refrigeration.
What are the differences? Wet-cured hams are much cheaper than dry-cured varieties because the process is quicker, easier and the yield is higher - the hams gain weight by absorbing the brine. Dry-curing usually involves the whole leg, from the foot (from which it is hung to age) to the thigh. Wet-cured hams are usually just the meaty thigh, and are often boneless.
What to look for: as with every food, look for flavour, texture and appearance. The best dry-cured hams - whether smoked or unsmoked - have a good balance of flavours, with the pork's sweetness winning out over salt and other spices. They have a silky texture and lightly glossy sheen from the fat. Wet-cured hams should also be well-balanced in flavour.
What else? Some varieties of ham are so renowned and highly regarded they're named after the region that produces them, such as Parma (which also gives us a delicious cheese), Smithfield, Yunnan and Westphalian. If you really love these luxury products, and have the money and a cool, airy space in your home, whole hams are a good purchase at speciality shops in France, Italy and Spain.
How to use: wet-cured hams are usually pre-cooked. They can be eaten cold or reheated by roasting or boiling whole, or slicing and pan-frying. Whole baked ham is a popular dish for celebrations: cover the exterior with a thin coat of mustard and brown sugar, maple syrup or honey. Score the entire surface of the ham then bake, basting frequently with the drippings.
Dry-cured hams are best eaten raw in paper-thin slices or they will be tough. To best appreciate the flavours, eat the ham on its own, but it can also be added to sandwiches and salads. Ham bones are an excellent addition to soups and stews.
