Turn up the heat
Spiciness has universal appeal, and this city offers the full spectrum of hot foods, from mild pink to roaring, fiery red
THOSE WHO love spice find it impossible to resist a well-made vindaloo, a good tom yum or anything laden with chilli. A tongue on fire and a dripping brow and nose are all part of the spicy dining experience. We largely have to thank those great seafaring peoples, the Arabs, Portuguese and Dutch, for introducing these exotic ingredients to the world and bringing colour and flavour into our food. Cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, cloves, saffron, ginger, chilli - in many places an enjoyable meal would be hard to imagine without some of these fabulous culinary must-haves. Spiciness has universal appeal. What self-respecting city in the world does not have its Thai, Indian and Sichuan restaurants? In the following pages you will learn where to go for the hot stuff, from Thai, Indian and Mexican to Sichuanese and Taiwanese.
Que Pasa
2/F, 8 Observatory Court, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2316 2525
Fare Mexican and other Latin dishes. Ambience The second-floor restaurant looks out on a surprisingly quiet street in Tsim Sha Tsui. Once inside, think Sante Fe or American southwest: native American patterned rugs on the walls, rustic hardwood floors, a bull skull and Indian feather ornaments are part of the decor. In the evenings, two guitarists pick out Latin melodies. Cost For a starter, main course, dessert, two drinks and coffee comes to a very reasonable HK$650 for two. Who to bring Friends or someone who appreciates a Latin ambience and an unpretentious setting. Turn-ons While the menu isn't strictly Mexican, the portions are generous and almost everything we ate was delicious. The pan-fried crab cakes with habanero chilli were two large crispy pucks of superb crabmeat mixed with cornmeal flour. The big bowl of spicy fowl broth with shredded chicken, green chilli, onion, corn and avocado was heaven, and a meal in itself. The pan-fried fillet of halibut with paprika was flaky and fresh, and went well with the homemade mango salsa. The chocolate and coffee sponge rum cake roll was more dense log than sponge cake, but that didn't stop us clearing every last crumb. Turn-offs We thought it a bit odd for a Mexican restaurant to blast dated '80s tunes by the likes of Bryan Adams during the lulls in the live guitar music. Why wasn't the Latin mood sustained? The char-broiled skin-on banana topped with fresh vanilla cream and toasted walnuts was disappointingly bland. The banana was a not particularly sweet plantain and the dollop of cream lacked any hint of aromatic vanilla. Drinks Que Pasa delivers in the drinks department - hands down. The excellent speciality cocktails are HK$32 by the glass during happy hour, HK$48 at regular hours, and HK$248 for a pitcher. You get a full range of margaritas (including frozen mango, coconut and Amaretto margaritas) and speciality drinks such as sangria, classic Cuban mojitos and Mexican ice beer. JLD
Tai Pak Food & Noodle
G/F, 2N Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, 2332 4673
Fare Casual but delicious Taiwanese dishes. Ambience Not much of it, but the interior is clean, tidy and pleasant. Who to bring A small group of friends. Cost About HK$60 per person, with Taiwanese flavoured tea drinks. Turn-ons The food is delicious, especially the dan dan noodles, which you can have with tender beef brisket and tendon. The rice with spicy minced pork was good to the last bite, and the chicken cooked in rice wine (pictured) was potent and made with noticeably fresh meat. Even something as simple as stir-fried bitter melon was done perfectly, seasoned to bring out the best in the vegetable. Turn-offs It gets very crowded here, so be prepared to share tables with strangers. The tea-based drinks are only so-so, and some of the dishes (such as the deep-fried tofu in chilli sauce) are comparatively bland. Drinks No alcohol is served here, so be satisfied with the soft drinks. RH
Wing Lai Yuen
G/F, 15-17 Fung Tak Road, Wong Tai Sin, 2726 3818
Fare Sichuan, and most famous for its dan dan noodles. Ambience Typical neighbourhood Chinese eatery, with tiled floor, stools and collapsible tables, but cosy and pleasant. This place has a loyal fan base, so it is always packed out, making for a very lively atmosphere. Cost If you come here just for the xiao long bao and dan dan noodles, you can enjoy a great meal for well under HK$50. Even the bigger dishes, such as the beef in chilli broth and the wonton with chicken broth in a clay pot, do not cost more than HK$100 per head. Who to bring Close friends who don't mind trekking out to Wong Tai Sin for a bite. Turn-ons The food is reliable and the service friendly. The noodles are always al dente. Popular dishes include chicken in peanut and chilli sauce, pork ribs cooked in Chinese wine and sliced garoupa in sweetened vinegar. Turn-offs This place was once part of a squatter housing area that has since been redeveloped. Some loyalists say that since the restaurant moved into a proper shop (there is another location in Hung Hom's Whampoa Gourmet Place), the food has lost some of its edge. Drinks Stick with beer or soya milk. RH
Heaven On Earth
Basement, Century Square, 1-13 D'Aguilar Street, Central, 2537 8083
Fare Sichuan, Shanghainese and Taiwanese, served with style. Ambience One of the striking things about this restaurant is the entrance. The first things you note as you walk in are a floor-to-ceiling cabinet filled with clay yellow wine bottles and a staircase adorned with Chinese-wedding bows leading down to an exotically decorated dining hall. Who to bring There's something for everyone to enjoy here: a cultural experience for out-of-towners, a great carefree feel for a gathering of buddies and intimate booths for romancing couples. Cost Prices and portions can vary widely. HK$150 per head will get you enough food, but for a full-on experience you'll have to try the Chinese-themed cocktails and the premium tea, which may more than double the cost. Turn-ons Dishes range from pleasant to heavenly. The simmered tender pork in hot chilli sauce was a delectable rendition of a traditional dish that usually contains beef or fish, and the meat was nicely sweet. The chicken in spicy sesame sauce (pictured) was smooth and tasty (though hardly spicy), and the deep-fried freshwater shrimps in Chung Hing style were a fantastic accompaniment with the cocktails. We were also delighted to find deep-fried fermented bean curd (stinky tofu), a dish not many restaurants dare serve. It had a distinctive smell without stinking up the whole room. It was great with the hot chilli sauce. The menu also had several vegetarian options. Turn-offs The jellyfish crisps with spring onion had a nice texture but little taste. The braised sea cucumber and mixed mushrooms in abalone sauce tasted mostly of oyster sauce, but the vegetable was done al dente. Drinks The oolong tea champagne was lovely. For the adventurous there are funky cocktails made with Chinese rice wine. Conventional drinkers can order their usual beverages. RH
Khyber Pass
Shop E2, 7/F Chungking Mansions Block E, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721 2786/2739 1177
Fare The best Indian curries in that bastion of Indian food, Chungking Mansions - so the restaurant's loyal clientele would have it. Ambience Ambience? What ambience? You are in Chungking, where the norm is plastic table covers and flimsy curtains hiding views of dim, grimy elevator shafts. To be fair, though, it always feels good to be here because everyone - diners and servers alike - always seems to be having a good time. Cost About HK$150 per head for food and some beer. Who to bring Great friends on a night out for cheap, cheering spicy food and no-holds-barred conversation. This is no place for the fussy and finicky, who are sure to complain of 'strange smells in the hallway'. Chungking has really cleaned up its act in recent years, but it's still no IFC.
Turn-ons The food, especially the rogan josh, palak paneer and chicken masala. The prawn laziz (big meaty crustaceans in a tomato-based curry sauce) is very special, and so is the wok-fried partridge, another signature dish.
Turn-offs The seating is uncomfortable, and you may have to sit near the toilets, but the staff will be happy to move you to better seats as they become available. Drinks The good ol' Kingfisher is the staple here. And it's BYOB here (expect to drink your alcohol out of a water glass here, not fine crystal). RH
Thai Shing Restaurant
G/F, Tang Fai Building, 36 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, 2834 2500
Fare Cheap, cheery and authentic Thai food. Ambience No-frills decor and Thai pop music videos playing. Cost About HK$150 for two.
Who to bring Anyone who enjoys a good meal and does not mind a visit to dingy Tang Lung Street. Turn-ons The food and nothing but the food. We wanted the som tum (spicy green papaya salad) medium hot and it came exactly as ordered, with just enough kick without numbing the taste buds. The stir-fried vermicelli with prawns (pictured) was deliciously seasoned and featured very fresh seafood. Turn-offs The music isn't overly loud, but it can get a bit much after a while. Drinks Don't expect a wine list. Stick with beer or a lime soda. RH
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