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Raw, rancid and real in the belly of the beast

Reading Time:2 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Tim Noonan

For so long the people who run the Sevens have been trying to connect with the larger Hong Kong community. They run mini-rugby tournaments and there are a number of Hong Kong girls roughing it up in leagues around town as well.

But for a true example of kindred spirits, of community and event coming together as one, use your nose. Tourists in this town often comment how they are overwhelmed by the pungent odour that emanates from a combination of meats hanging on hooks half the day in the heat.

Then you wander by a stinky tofu stall and, yow, another blow to the nose. It's a memorable experience that the Sevens seems intent on replicating.

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Legend has it that when Bob Hope landed in Hong Kong years ago, he asked one of his welcoming party what that awful smell was. 'It's the s**t,' he was told. 'I know,' said Hope, 'but what have they done to it?' Not sure if Bob ever made it to the Sevens, but if he did, he might ask the same question. There can't be a wet market in Mong Kok that smells worse than Hong Kong Stadium come Sunday afternoon.

After three days of debauchery, the stadium is just flat out ripe. 'That's the way it should be,' said Martin Howard, a Canadian. 'This place is raw and it should smell like it. It would be a pretty boring place if it smelled like a perfume boutique.'

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He tells of skating through the aisles in the South Stand because there was so much beer on the floor. 'The place was soaked in beer,' he said. 'It was beautiful.'

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