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Empire expands

Restaurant group Dining Concepts has claimed another piece of prime culinary real estate, Cecconi's Cantina joining its other Elgin Street eateries: Olive, Bizou, Craftsteak and SoHo Spice. The original Cecconi's is in Melbourne and holds a 'two toques' rating from the city's food bible, The Age Good Food Guide. Chef and part owner of the Melbourne restaurant Harry Lilai is the consultant chef for the Hong Kong branch.

Designer and long-time Dining Concepts collaborator Hernan Zanghellini recreated the Melbourne cantina's timber beams and bright diffused lighting. The eye is drawn past the 80-seat dining room to the semi-open kitchen - another popular feature Down Under.

Cecconi's menu is a trimmed down version of the original. With chef Peter Birks , 24, at the helm, SoHo diners can try 'modernised Italian classics' such as vitello tonnato (HK$88) - the veal is cut thicker than usual, accompanied by seared tuna slices and served with a tuna mayonnaise.

Lilai's favourite appetiser is the creamed baccala (salt cod) served with onion and polenta (HK$88). He says this dish defines 'the warmth of eating with family'.

Signature mains are the rabbit torte filled with potato and leek, served with pan-fried rabbit fillet (above left; HK$168), peppered duck breast with leg confit served with sweet potato and lime jus (HK$168), and baby lamb braised in white wine, garlic and vegetables (HK$198). For fish, there's a roasted snapper fillet over paella (HK$188) and barramundi over curly spinach and lemon, with a puttanesca sauce (HK$208). To appease your sweet tooth, try the warm chocolate pudding with vanilla ice cream and citrus compote (HK$68) or the pavlova roulade with chantilly and Rosso Antico strawberries (HK$68).

Set lunches are offered at HK$88 plus 10 per cent for two courses (soup or salad and main) and HK$118 for three courses (including dessert). The business lunch set is HK$138 and changes regularly.

Wine lovers can take advantage of Cecconi's post tax-break stock, which includes more than 100 reds and whites with a strong Italian focus. Some of the New World wines are good bargains, though a bottle of 2003 Opus One will still set you back HK$4,170.

Cecconi's Cantina is at 43 Elgin Street, Central, tel: 2147 5500.

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