Cuisine: Modern Chinese.

Ambience: White blankets the 4,500sqft space, but the effect is cool and elegant rather than cold and stark. Guests dine communally at a 30-seat table under snowy branches. Classical music - western and Chinese - imparts drama to an interior both romantic and theatrical. An amusing, consciously poetic menu forms part of the performance: dishes bear names such as 'The Journey of a Pomelo Soft Shell Crab' and 'A Breeze of Mystery Flowers'.

Price: The set-course tasting menu is HK$980. A three-course a la carte dinner is about HK$550 without drinks and 10 per cent service charge.

Pros: Unusual, tea-inspired dishes are presented beautifully on covetable crockery. Attentive, robed staff look the part in the dramatic setting. Although the restaurant is predominantly white there's much to attract the eye, including giant candles and high-back chairs that resemble sentinels standing guard. Portions are generous.

Cons: Explanations of some of the menu's oddly named dishes weren't as well-rehearsed as they could have been. 'The Soup is Chestnut' paled in comparison (in terms of taste and looks) to the other dishes ordered. The restaurant was a little difficult to find, hidden behind posters of Yue Zhi Qiang's pig-themed artwork, which Green T. House is exhibiting until May 23.

Recommended dishes: The 'Cuttlefish Ribbons in a Purple Attitude' (HK$168, above) consisted of a bowl of soft cuttlefish strips resembling flat noodles. The subtle flavour of the mushroom-based sauce worked well with the accompanying fresh seaweed salad. My guest described as gorgeous his main, 'Autumn Sky' (HK$360) - lean pieces of roasted lamb in coriander and delicately fried Oolong tea leaves. My selection, 'Green T. Wasabi Prawns Dancing with Mystery Salsa' (HK$285), turned out to be seaweed-dotted prawn dumplings sitting in a treacly peanut-vinegar mixture. It deserved top marks for flavour, but the wasabi coating was a bit doughy. Home-made green tea ice-cream (HK$48) ended the evening. Again, the flavour was unusual - creamier and less bitter than what's available elsewhere.

What else? Green T. House comprises a restaurant, gallery and shop, which stocks some of the ceramics used by the restaurant. Guests who don't wish to share their table with strangers can book the private dining room.