Bricolage 62

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 17 May, 2007, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 17 May, 2007, 12:00am

62 Hollywood Road, Central

Tel: 2542 1991

Open: Sunday-Thursday noon-10pm (last orders), Friday and Saturday noon-10.30pm

Cuisine: Casual European cafe.

Ambience: Loud, chatty and friendly. Tables are close together, so the chances of hearing your neighbours' conversation - and them hearing yours - is high.

Price: About HK$250 for a three-course dinner without wine and 10 per cent service charge.

Pros: The staff are very accommodating. When our mains took a while coming, a waitress brought us bread to snack on. When my guest's steak arrived undercooked, it was whisked away and soon replaced. We were also given complimentary shoestring fries and our glasses of wine were topped up free of charge.

Cons: There's nothing particularly negative about eating here, but a few things niggled. Half the bread was hard and inedible, and we had to ask for oil and vinegar. Tables are close, so if you're sitting by a wall, getting in and out can be tricky.

Recommended dishes: The starter of grilled quail with bacon, chestnuts, boiled duck egg and celery (above, a bargain for only HK$72) was a winner. The meat was succulent and brimming with flavour, accented by the smoky bacon aroma. The pear and goat's cheese salad (HK$54) - mounds of rocket and chunks of cheese and pear amid lashings of tangy vinaigrette - was also enticing. The pan-grilled snapper (HK$123) was enjoyable - although not as delicious as the quail. The fish came on a bed of mash with grilled vegetables, all of which worked well together. The steak and fries (HK$148) - when it eventually arrived, medium rather than rare - was wonderful. The juicy steak was tender and the shoestring fries crunchy. For dessert, the Shaker lemon pie (HK$48) was tangy yet sweet with a lovely crust, and the cheesecake (HK$48) was one of the creamiest I've come across in my search for the perfect version.

What else? Bricolage 62 is sister restaurant to Tribute (on Elgin Street), which serves set lunches and dinners.