'Our jewellery was traditionally made in pure gold, but the selection has expanded to include diamonds and gold jewellery in modern designs,' says regional manager Lui Yick-Keung.

Gone are the days when people bought pure gold (marked 999.9) for the sake of preserving value, a traditional belief held in Chinese culture. The brand's Perfect Gold collection of earrings, necklaces and pendants features pure gold jewellery in modern designs, mixing pure gold with materials such as amber. In 2001, Chow Tai Fook launched a fashion jewellery brand called cf2. The current focus is diamond jewellery with simple designs, says Lui, with solitaire diamond rings remaining popular.

Baer Jewels

Known for his contemporary pieces featuring architectural shapes and bold designs, Baer Jewel's founder and designer Peter Baer trained as a goldsmith before moving to Hong Kong in 1979. He set up his brand in 1988 and started making jewellery using semi-precious stones and pearls before using jade almost exclusively in the past decade.

'I found many jadeite pieces a bit dated as clients brought their jade in to be reworked,' says the Swiss native. Baer mixes jade with elements such as pearls and diamonds to create original designs. Most of his creations are one-of-a-kind or made in limited numbers. Baer favours lavender and icy jade. 'The darker ones are extremely expensive and more difficult to wear and match with your wardrobe.'

Larry Jewelry

Most pieces at Larry Jewelry are handmade in limited numbers, using diamonds and precious gems such as rubies and emeralds. Founded in 1967 by Larry Chan, the first boutique opened in Tsim Sha Tsui and attracted mostly American tourists. In the early 80s, the brand built its name among

local customers when it opened its first store in Central.

'At the time, vintage watches and jewellery in the Art Deco style with intricate workmanship were very popular,' says managing director Stanley Chan, Larry's younger brother. 'Trends in fine jewellery change every decade or so. In the 90s, people favoured a more pared-down, minimalist style using mostly white gold and colourless diamonds. Now rose gold is back.'

However, Chan's customers favour solitaire diamond rings - in different cuts - with certificates. The bridal collection features matching earrings, necklace and ring, with various motifs in diamonds and other precious stones. Collection highlights include a fan brooch elaborately set with diamond-encrusted flowers and a three-leaf brooch with coloured diamonds.

Enzo

A relatively newcomer, Enzo is named after its founder, Lorenzo Yih. His concept of 'mine-to-market' means the brand sources semi-precious stones from all over the world, and cuts and designs the jewellery in-house.

Yih's vision is to conquer the mainland market by changing Chinese attitudes to coloured stones. The Rainbow Colour collection features rings, earrings and pendants with multi-coloured gemstones, including amethyst, citrine, peridot and blue topaz. The brand opened its first store in Hong Kong last July after opening in Shanghai in 2004.

Tse Sui Luen

Like many other local jewellers that traditionally offered pure gold jewellery, Tse Sui Luen has revamped its image inrecent years to attract a younger clientele. William Lai, associate group marketing director at Tse Sui Luen Jewellery, says customers now favour diamond jewellery over pure gold. The Estrella collection features diamond rings and bands for engagements, weddings and anniversaries. Besides coloured stones set in rings, highlights from the current collection are pendants and rings with pave-set diamonds in modern designs.

Shopping list

Baer Jewels

2/F, 10 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: 2877 0099. Also available at Lane Crawford in IFC Mall. Tel: 2118 3388.

Chow Tai Fook

Shop G2, Aon China Building, 29 Queen's Road Central. Tel: 2523 7128.

Enzo

Shop G17, Park Lane Shoppers' Boulevard, 111-181 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 2376 0288.

Larry Jewelry

Shop 312, the Landmark, Central. Tel: 2523 3880.

Tse Sui Luen

35 Queen's Road Central. Tel: 2921 8800.