PUBLISHED : Thursday, 30 August, 2007, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 30 August, 2007, 12:00am

G1014 Yiu Sing Mansion, Stage 10, Taikoo Shing

Tel: 2186 6969

Open: noon-2.30pm (last order), 6pm-10.30pm

Cuisine: Japanese, focusing on the cuisine of the Okinawa prefecture.

Ambience: Not much. The decor is subtle, with Japanese statues, pottery and a few wall hangings.

Price: About HK$320 for dinner without drinks or the 10 per cent service charge.

Pros: The menu lists some interesting dishes not usually seen on more generic Japanese menus. We enjoyed all the Okinawan speciality dishes we tasted.

Cons: The premium sashimi platter (HK$250) paled in comparison with the other dishes, despite a generous serving, fresh rather than powdered wasabi, and a good variety of fresh seafood, including scallops, amaebi (sweet shrimp), hirami (halibut) and hamachi (yellowtail).

Recommended dishes: Sea grapes, a variety of seaweed indigenous to Okinawa, featured in many dishes, so we ordered them in a salad with Japanese greens (HK$52). They popped crisply in our mouths and went well with the creamy sesame dressing and slightly bitter greens that resembled dandelion leaves.

Preserved pig's ears with cucumber and sesame sauce (HK$32) was another enjoyable cold dish, with the ears cooked just long enough so they retained their distinctive bite. Grilled bitter gourd stuffed with fish paste (HK$58, above) was almost shockingly bitter at first, but the flavour faded to give a sweet aftertaste.

Our favourite dish was homemade peanut flavoured bean curd (HK$54). It was deep-fried, and had a smooth, slightly elastic texture and a distinct but not overwhelming peanut taste.

We ended the meal with stewed Okinawan pork ribs with Okinawa noodles (HK$88). The noodles stayed chewy and firm in the subtle, soothing broth.

What else? Naha was opened by the Epicurean Group, which also has the Peak Lookout, Agave, La Mer Brasserie and Jimmy's Kitchen, among others.