At the corner of Modena's main piazza is this expansive locale enjoyed by the local arty set who regularly slip into its huge sofa chairs for brisk modernist takes on national favourites. Try the ravioli stuffed with sea bass for Euro12 (HK$142) or the suckling pig with silky glazed onions for Euro14. It's busy most evenings thanks to regular live music sets although there are tables outside if you'd prefer to sit in the shadow of Modena's cathedral and slanting bell tower. Ideal for lingering over a coffee and a dessert like the fluffy chocolate and pear souffle steeped in aged balsamic vinegar (Euro7).

Al Grottino

26 Via del Taglio

This much-loved haunt is set amidst the winding side streets. Students flock here for their huge crunchy calzone (Euro10) and the atmosphere is informal. It's also a good place for fish - rare in this meaty part of Italy. Try the grilled cod (Euro14) with a leafy salad for something refreshingly healthy in a city that prefers richer food. Inside it can be rather cramped but there are plenty of covered tables outside which are good for people-watching. Good value if there's a bunch of you.

Ristorante Fini

Rua Frati Minori

Modena's medieval arches conceal one of Italy's most exclusive restaurants. For nearly a century Fini has served local ingredients here with a passion that borders on the fanatic - one highlight of the Euro80 local tasting menu is shavings of 24-month Parmesan sourced from speciality herds. It's impossible to rush when faced with this dedication and it's worth setting aside a whole evening to experience a tasting which also features juicy cotechino and a liquor-soaked trifle. Wine comes from the restaurant's own vineyards and its Lambrusco may force you to shelve the next day too. Book well in advance.

Osteria Francescana

22 Via Stella

Modena's dining scene is best described as conservative and it's rather strange to come across such avant-garde cooking in what can be rather a smug part of Italy. The amuse-bouche of mortadella had been treated to some kind of foamy process and was unconvincing although the bean and pasta soup was much more rewarding, nestling on top of a layer of foie gras which was thick and peppery enough to work as a main. It's the kind of place where you might want to take someone to impress, but prices can be high with the full experience easily reaching Euro140.

Oresete

31 Piazza Roma

Pavarotti practically interred himself in this Michelin-starred place and it's easy to see why the legendary tenor liked it so much when you try the food. The sweet pumpkin ravioli is so buttery the sauce drips on the chin. Homemade pastas are not to be missed but Oresete also specialises in meat and the crisp veal and potatoes brushed with rosemary is another enjoyable route to a Pavarotti-style figure. The decor of light wood panelling and bulb lighting looks like it hasn't been touched for decades, but as with the food, this is a place that does not need to shout to attract attention. Round off an evening with a glass of sticky Nocino made from a local walnut: the optimum digestif after such rich treats.