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Vanuatu
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Vanuatu

Vanuatu

The former New Hebrides offers volcanic majesty, wildlife and glimpses of ancient traditions - and with a postbox always close by, there are no excuses for keeping it a secret.

1. Tanna

One of Vanuatu's most populous islands, Tanna was 'discovered' by James Cook in 1774 - he was drawn by the light from its active volcano (bottom centre). A visit to Mount Yasur, one of the world's most accessible volcanic peaks, is a must - you can sit on the rim while it is erupting and the summit is so popular it even has a postbox.

2. Espiritu Santo

With probably the most exotic-sounding name of any island in the Pacific Ocean, Santo, the largest of Vanuatu's 80 islands, is well known among divers. In the depths of its turquoise waters lies the large wreck of the SS President Coolidge (bottom right), a troop carrier that sank during the second world war. Divers are also drawn to Million Dollar Point, so named because of the American military hardware dumped here. Everything from jeeps, ambulances, forklifts, trucks and bulldozers to cases of Coca-Cola can be found, discarded by the departing Americans rather than given to the locals. Champagne Beach is a beautiful stretch of sand and the Malo River is navigable by kayak as far as a freshwater blue hole that is perfect for swimming.

3. Efate

Home of the capital, Port Vila, Vanuatu's most populous island has a cosmopolitan feel to it, with bustling alfresco restaurants and markets selling a range of exotic, locally grown fruit as well as the odd sarong for tourists. You may even bump into a film crew because Efate is a popular location for Survivor-type reality-TV shows. There are more than 30 restaurants in Port Vila; look out for the local poulet fish or organic beef from Espiritu Santo. Many visitors go to the Cascade Waterfalls to take a swim in the pools at their top.

4. Ambrym

Described by the locals as the Island of Mysteries, Ambrym has a reputation for sorcery. The island, much of which has been rendered barren by natural acid rain, is dominated by two volcanoes, mounts Marum and Benbow. Apart from volcano gazing, the island is known for its drums, tree-fern carvings, sand drawings and 'Rom' dances, which express the will of the spirits.

5. Moso

Located just off the northern coast of Efate, Moso Island is a snorkeller's dream. You can play tag with sea turtles or just lie on the beach at one of the tiny, eco-friendly resorts. Although Moso, which has no roads, is one of the smaller outposts, it draws plenty of divers to its stunning reefs. You can also canoe, hike and go caving here.

6. Hideaway Islands

This tiny atoll is off Efate and is surrounded by a marine sanctuary, which means it's perfect for scuba diving and snorkelling. Here you will find down-to-earth hospitality at the Hideaway Island Resort & Marine Sanctuary (complete with fresh water pumped in from Efate's Cascade Waterfalls), the world's only underwater letter-box (bottom left; what is it with letter-boxes in Vanuatu?) and a restaurant on the beach.

7. Torba Province

The name of the northernmost province of Vanuatu is derived from the first letters of its two main island groups: Torres and Banks. High rainfall (on average 390cm a year) makes for some stunning waterfalls in this region, Vanua Lava's Waterfall Bay, a stunning picnic spot, being one of the best. Watch out for the remaining salt-water crocodiles introduced last century by a local bishop. To find the ultimate escape, head across the low-tide sand bar from Banks' Mota Lava to Ra Island, a thatch of greenery and coconut fronds and home to the tiny Harry Memorial Guesthouse, famed for its fresh lobster.

8. Pentecost and Maewo islands

These islands are best known for the yam festival ritual of naghol, or land diving, making them the spiritual home of bungee jumping. The ritual is now limited to the southern part of Pentecost. Legend has it that a beaten wife hid in the trees from her husband. When he climbed the tree to catch her, she jumped. He followed her down, not realising she had tied liana vines around her ankles, enabling her to survive the fall. Now men and boys leap from towers of sticks to prove their strength and to show their women they will not be fooled. The ritual takes place between April and June.

Maewo is famous for its secret societies; men and women dance out of sight of the other sex (a restriction that applies equally to tourists), blessing the ground beneath them. Maewo's waterfalls trump its beaches (it gets the most rain in Vanuatu and its beaches are black).

9. Epi

Best known for its bird watching, Epi is a tiny, tranquil island of white sandy coves and freshwater lakes. It has two small airstrips and a guesthouse in which to while away a warm afternoon with a local beer. Lamen Bay is considered the best beach on the island and it boasts in-shore reefs easily reached from the sand. Look out for tame dugongs, a sea creature that loves to play with tourists. One particular male, named Wally, is a regular.

10. Erromango

Tafea province's largest island was given the name Martyr's Island by 19th-century Presbyterian missionaries, who had a hard time of it here before the island was developed by sandalwood traders. Islanders suffered at the hands of the slave traders for Australian and Fijian sugar plantations. Erromango has been effective in creating sustainable logging practices and the creation of a kauri pine reserve is underway. Considered one of Vanuatu's best islands for trekking, there are also caves and deserted beaches just waiting to be explored.

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