2. Bali

The popular resort island of Bali (below left) conjures up images of emerald-green rice terraces, colourful Hindu festivals, palm-fringed beaches and craftsmen toiling away in workshops turning out woodcarvings, batik, pottery and silverware. Since the terrorist bombings of 2002 and 2005, tourists numbers have gradually started to recover. The well-heeled make a beeline for the enclave of Nusa Dua while down the road, brash and bustling Kuta Beach keeps the party crowd entertained. Savvy travellers and families make for the north-coast resort of Lovina, where there are child-friendly seas and plenty of volcanic black sand to spread a towel on. The cultural centre of Ubud retains its appeal as a laid-back hillside retreat.

3. Lombok

The island attracts independent travellers keen to discover whether the place really is 'just like Bali 30 years ago'. The gin-clear waters and talcum-powder sands of Gili Trawangan, one of three satellite islands off Lombok's northwest coast, draw a young clientele who snorkel the fringing reef by day and slouch in hammocks slurping beer after sundown. Mount Rinjani lures the adventurous and energetic off the beach and into their hiking boots. The three-day climb to the summit is best attempted with a professional trekking company and specialist outdoor equipment. The route to the south of Lombok passes through indigenous Sasak villages to the peaceful beach settlement at Kute. Hire a moped to negotiate the potholed coastal road that meanders west to the beaches of Mawun and Selong Blanak, which are among Indonesia's prettiest.

4. Lembata

The island of Lembata is off the radar for all but the most determined traveller. The arid terrain discourages agriculture, so islanders rely on the ocean for survival. For the villagers of Lamalera, whale hunting has been practised for centuries using the kinds of methods described in the novel Moby-Dick. From May to October, sinewy fishermen, some missing limbs, set out in traditional wooden boats armed with only handmade harpoons. The prized whale meat is divided between the hunters, their families and the village head. To witness the spectacle, arrange a place on a viewing boat through the owner of your guesthouse.

5. Java

Densely populated Java has much to offer the visitor, though it's wise to limit exploration to one region. Central Java offers a convenient cluster of attractions and the former royal capital of Yogyakarta is a good base for side trips to two Unesco World Heritage sites. The 9th-century Buddhist monument of Borobudur is best visited in May, when the Waisak Festival takes place. Expect dancing, lots of candles and long lines of orange-robed monks and pilgrims. The magnificent Hindu temple complex of Prambanan leaves sightseers similarly awestruck. Try to time a visit to coincide with a floodlit Ramayana ballet performance. Heading eastwards brings the option of a sunrise ascent to the rim of spectacular Mount Bromo, an active volcano that hisses, rumbles and billows steam.

6. Sumatra

The world's sixth-largest island is a wonderland cloaked with tropical rainforest that boasts exotic flora and fauna, traditional cultures and stunning beaches. A circuit of Sumatra should start with a fast ferry from Penang, in Malaysia, to Medan and a bus to the orang-utan rehabilitation centre at Bukit Lawang. Visitors learn how logging and human encroachment have led to a loss of habitat for the apes (below) and a lucky few get the chance to feed the primates their daily diet of milk and bananas. Despite the bone-shuddering nine-hour drive to Lake Toba, the largest lake in Southeast Asia is well worth the effort. Tourists, reinvigorated by the cooler temperatures, hike and mountain bike in the pine-clad hinterland. Another arduous bus journey brings the traveller to Bukitinggi, an attractive town overlooked by three volcanoes. Nearby is the city of Padang, from where you can fly back to Penang.

7. Flores

Exploring Flores requires ingenuity and patience but rewards those who persevere. Top of the sightseer's itinerary are the multicoloured volcanic crater lakes of Kelimutu. The optimistically named Trans Flores Highway weaves through 700km of scenic countryside, though public transport is unreliable. Instead, consider slowing the pace and heading into the hills. Trekking in Flores reveals a predominantly Christian population of subsistence farming communities that fascinate linguists by each speaking a slightly different dialect.

8. Sumba

9. Sulawesi

Orchid-shaped Sulawesi has a mountainous spine and four tentacle-like peninsulas that are more easily reached by sea than road. For diversity, the island formerly known as Celebes is hard to beat. Divers speak in hushed tones of Bunaken, where one of the world's most biodiverse coral reef systems teems with marine life. Culture buffs and anthropologists descend on the Tana Toraja region, where inhabitants maintain ancient traditions, including elaborate funeral ceremonies. Toraja tombs are carved high into cliffs, with the only access being by rope ladder. Regular flights link Bali and Jakarta with the Sulawesi capital, Ujung Pandang, and with Manado for Bunaken.

10. Bintan