Beyond Nose to Tail - A Kind of British Cooking: Part II

PUBLISHED : Sunday, 29 June, 2008, 12:00am
UPDATED : Sunday, 29 June, 2008, 12:00am

Beyond Nose to Tail - A Kind of British Cooking: Part II

By Fergus Henderson and Justin Piers Gellatly

Available for GBP11.69 (HK$178) from

Fergus Henderson, chef and owner of St John Bar and Restaurant, in Smithfield, London, found fame with his belief that entire animals should be eaten, not just the common cuts of meat.

The philosophy is further expounded in his second book, Beyond Nose to Tail. It continues in the tradition of his first, Nose to Tail Eating (reissued as The Whole Beast with a foreward by American celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain), which contains recipes for roasted bone marrow with parsley salad (a dish that's been copied endlessly) and rolled pig's spleen. But while Beyond Nose to Tail has recipes for pot-roast half pig's head (above; which Henderson suggests serving as a romantic supper for two), pressed pig's ear, braised squirrel and deep-fried tripe, he lets his pastry chef, Justin Piers Gellatly, take centre stage. Almost three-quarters of the book is devoted to the breads and desserts served at St John and the more casual St John Bread & Wine.

As in the first book, the photos (by Jason Lowe) are taken without benefit of a stylist: the food is unadorned, without pretty backdrops or props.