SoHo SoHo

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 03 July, 2008, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 03 July, 2008, 12:00am

1/F Arbuthnot Road, Central

Tel: 2147 2618

Open: noon-2.30pm (Sun and public holidays, 9am-4pm), 6.30pm-10.30pm

Cuisine: British

Price: About HK$350 per person without drinks and before adding service charge.

Ambience: SoHo SoHo occupies the space that once housed Veda and we spotted a couple of design elements that remained from the much-missed Indian restaurant. The server let me choose my table when I arrived because I was the only customer but by the time we left at around 10pm, the restaurant was about half full.

Pros: They serve tap water without fuss. Portions are large and prices are reasonable. The menu has everything you'd expect from a traditional British menu (mulligatawny soup, fish and chips, kedgeree, Welsh rarebit, bread and butter pudding and rhubarb crumble with custard) as well as more contemporary dishes.

Cons: The smoked fish pate (HK$60) was misnamed - it was a very light, smooth mousse. My guest complained that the sherry trifle (HK$65) was too sweet and needed more sherry and fruit - but it didn't prevent him from scraping his bowl clean.

Recommended dishes: French black pudding with caramelised apple and poached egg (HK$85, above) was a delicious, hearty combination - something I'd love to eat for breakfast. The best dish of the evening was the char-grilled calves' liver with bacon and Colcannon mash (HK$180). It came with too much onion gravy, which was unnecessary because the liver - perfectly cooked thin, tender slices that were nicely charred outside and slightly pink inside - had enough flavour on its own. My guest ate the entire main course of grilled rosemary lamb fillets and garlic mash (HK$195) - leaving behind just a few green beans - but he mentioned he liked the liver more. The lamb tasted as if it had been rubbed with garlic before being cooked to my guest's request of medium. Summer pudding (HK$75), selected from the summer menu, was a tart and refreshing ending to the rich meal.

What else? SoHo SoHo recently celebrated its 10th anniversary but it's perhaps the most peripatetic restaurant in Hong Kong - it moved from Old Bailey Street to Lyndhurst Terrace to temporary quarters in the Fringe Club, before settling on Arbuthnot Road. It offers weekday set lunches for HK$120 for two courses and Monday to Thursday set dinners for HK$195 for two courses and HK$245 for three. Breakfast and brunch are served on Sundays and public holidays.